Publicité
planked deck, and are intended to give you a clear idea
how it should look.
-
Mark a reference line parallel to the centreline and 2.5 mm
from it. Glue the central king strake 6.1 (mahogany) along
this line from the bow to the stern (7 sections), then glue
the caulking strips 6.2 on both sides of this strake.
-
Make the tool WKZ 6 from a piece of 6 mm wood strip and
a length of caulking strip.
-
The adhesive paper Kpap should be stuck to all the stra-
kes which are to be fitted with a joggle (notched joint): cut
the paper to the width of the strip and apply it; the cut lines
can now be drawn on the paper easily and accurately.
-
Trim the outer king strakes 6.3 to fit, apply the adhesive
paper to them and place them in position - don't glue them
yet. Mark a reference line at 3.5 mm width using the tem-
plate SD - Fig. 71.
-
Lay the front edge of the tool WKZ 6 against the cut-point
S 1 where the strake crosses the reference line AL. Mark
the cut-points S 2 and S 3 on the strake 6.3 - Fig. 72.
-
Mark and cut out the notch for the joggle in the king strake
as shown in Fig. 73.
-
Fit a caulking strip 6.2 along the front face of the outer stra-
ke 6.4 (1.5 x 6 x 1100 mm). Sand the strip flush with the
surface of the strake once the glue has set hard.
Note: remember to glue a caulking strip to the front end face
of all the strakes as described.
-
Trim the outer strake to fit in the notch in the king strake,
fitting a piece of caulking strip to maintain the correct spa-
cing - Fig. 74.
-
Allow all the planking to overhang beyond the marked line
at the stern by about 3 mm.
-
Align the outer strake with the reference line AL on the
deck, and fix it in place temporarily using about 20 clamps.
Since the joggle in the outer strake cannot be cut out until
it has been glued in place, the strake is only glued along
the line AL using SP-EX. Tack it in place between the
clamps, let the glue harden, then remove the clamps and
run drops of cyano along the reference line AL.
-
Caution: don't glue the king strake 6.3 and the caulking
strip in place at the same time. Attach the outer strake on
the opposite side - remembering to maintain a symmetrical
approach! Apply the adhesive paper (Kpap) to the first 20
cm of this strake also.
-
The space between the king strakes and the outer planks
can now be filled with 5 mm wide teak planking.
Remember to fit caulking strips to the front face of these
planks too.
-
Make up the tool WKZ 5 and place it along the base line
BL at the cut-point S 2 (from Fig. 72) as shown in Fig. 75.
-
Using the principle already described mark the cut-points
S 4 and S 5. Cut the notch, and trim the first teak planking
strake 6.5 to fit it. The strakes end inside the base line in
All manuals and user guides at all-guides.com
Assembly instructions
Valdivia
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
8
front of the forward hatch. Don't forget the caulking strips -
Fig. 76.
Use the same procedure to plank the triangle between the
first hatch and the strakes 6.5 using the deck strakes 6.6.
Don't glue the king strakes 6.3 in place until all the plan-
king and caulking have been glued in this triangle - Fig. 77.
In the interests of clarity this picture only shows the deck
planking on one side. Note: the joggles (notched joints) do
not coincide with the marked joint lines SL.
The next run of planking strakes 6.7 runs along the outsi-
de of the base line and extends over the full length of the
deck. This line of strakes starts with the joggle in the outer
strake 6.4.
Mark the 3.5 mm reference line on the outer strake, and
cut the joggle notch using the familiar procedure (WKZ 5)
- Figs. 78 and 79. Fig. 80 shows the joggle and one typical
strake (shortened).
The first strake 6.7 extends as far as the strake end PE,
and should be cut off at the joint line SL - Fig. 81. Starting
from this joint line plank the deck with 250 mm lengths of
strip wood, continuing through to the stern.
The next run of planking starts at the next joint line SL, and
the 50 mm offset is continued with the next line of strakes
- Fig. 82. Continue this planking procedure until you reach
the outer strakes. A joggle should be cut at that point as
already described, but this time facing in the opposite
direction.
The planking joints always repeat at the same joint line a
further six strakes outboard, i.e. every sixth joint is in line.
The planking of the forward deck area can now be com-
pleted. If a strake joint occurs close to the joggle, shorten
this strake by one joint interval and fit a short strake with a
joggled end - Fig. 83.
The planking of the areas still remaining open can now be
completed using the same procedure. Keep the strake
lengths as described, and check that the joints in every
sixth row of planking line up - Fig. 84.
Continue the holes marked in the ABS deck through the
planking.
Sand back the caulking strips until they are flush with the
wood surface. At the same time cautiously sand down the
planking to compensate for any variations in strake thickn-
ess. Finish off the whole of the wooden deck by rubbing it
down using fine abrasive paper until no sanding marks are
visible. Apply masking tape to the ABS deck edges (gluing
surfaces) all round the perimeter in order to avoid getting
grease on these surfaces during the next stage: waxing
the planking. Apply three or four coats of wax to the deck,
sanding with fine abrasive paper between coats. Allow
each coat of wax to dry out thoroughly before sanding.
Order No.
1140
Publicité
