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Cut and sand the clamp "HKL" to shape from a clothes
peg; the finished width of the jaws should be 5 mm - Fig.
234.
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Install the masts using the adapted spring clamps.
Notes:
a) Bend the spacer bar "AB" to shape from 1 mm Ø brass
wire - Fig. 237.
b) The lengths stated in the Parts List for thread and braided
steel wire are deliberately overlength.
c) The sleeves used in the rigging must be squeezed to an
oval cross-section so that two pieces of thread or wire can
be fitted through them side by side.
d) When crimp sleeves are used in the standing and running
rigging they should be squeezed to the point where the
material is held securely but not cut right through.
Nevertheless it is important that the joints should not slip.
This is easily achieved by using a pair of flat-nose pliers of
normal size, and squeezing the sleeve as close as possi-
ble to the joint.
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Cut the four pieces of thread to form the lower shrouds
24.1. Fit a sleeve 24.2 on the centre and form a loop.
Crimp the sleeve.
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The shrouds can now be connected. The arrangement of
the sleeves 24.3, pin rails 24.4 and deadeyes 24.5 is the
same for all the lower shrouds.
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Fit three sleeves, the pin rail and a further sleeve on the
shrouds. At this last sleeve form a loop and fit the deadeye
in the loop - Fig. 235.
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Rotate the deadeyes in the channels and at the shroud so
that they are orientated as shown in Fig. 237. Fit the spa-
cer bar "AB".
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Tighten the loose end of the shroud so that the cord is
under slight tension. Slide the sleeve to a point immedia-
tely above the deadeye and crimp it. The forward pin rails
should be set approximately horizontal (i.e. parallel to the
waterline); this can be achieved by connecting the shroud
pairs to the hooks 23.16, then turning them through 180°
after the deadeyes have been secured.
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Note: the loose ends of the lower shrouds are eventually
secured and the excess cut off, but only after the ratline
battens 24.42 have been fitted using SP-EX.
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Install the lanyards 24.6 - Figs. 236 and 237, and set the
lanyards for the lower and upper shrouds to the same
length. Tighten and secure the knots only when you have
completed this stage.
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Cut the forward upper shrouds (24.7) and the aft upper
shrouds (24.8) to length. Rotate the topmast mastheads so
that the hooks 23.25 are facing forward, and the single split
pin 23.26 at the main topmast 23.23 is facing left. Pull the
upper shrouds through the appropriate split pins, set them
to equal lengths and fix them to the split pin using a crimp
sleeve 24.9.
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Form small loops at the loose ends of the upper shrouds
using more crimp sleeves 24.9, spaced about 25 mm from
the channels - Fig. 238.
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Tie the lanyards 24.10 to the loops, and run the cord three
times through the split pin 15.3 and the loop. The upper
shrouds should only be placed under light tension. Belay
(secure) the cord end temporarily - Fig. 239.
All manuals and user guides at all-guides.com
Assembly instructions
Valdivia
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The bowsprit rigging
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24
Remove the spring clamps, disconnect the lower shrouds
and lower the topmasts slightly. Withdraw the mast. Fit the
beech dowel spring spacer 24.11 in the schooner mast
sleeve 12.3 and the corresponding spacer 24.12 in the
mainmast sleeve 12.4. Fit the compression springs 24.13
- Fig. 240.
Re-install the masts, fitting the mast collars 24.14 at the
same time; do not glue the collars.
Push the masts down against the springs and re-connect
the lower shrouds. When you release the masts the
shrouds are held in tension under spring pressure. Route
the upper shrouds over the spreaders.
The shrouds are correctly adjusted when there is a gap
about 5 mm wide between mast sleeve and mast, when all
eight shrouds are under approximately the same tension,
and when both masts are exactly in line when viewed from
the bow. Any corrections are made by adjusting the
lanyards, but don't glue the knots at this stage.
Shorten one shank of the split pins 11.25 as shown in Fig.
241 and glue them in place as shown.
Fit the bowsprit stay 24.15 between the split pins 1.6 at the
stem and 11.25 and secure it under tension using two
crimp sleeves 24.16. This type of stay is secured to the
split pins using loops and crimp sleeves. Fit a crimp slee-
ve on the loose end, thread it through the appropriate split
pin, pull it taut and kink the wire. This marked point is the
location for the second loop. Cut down the split pin 24.17
to a length of 8 mm and connect it to the lower split pin
11.25.
Bend the stay clip 24.18 to shape. Notch the dolphin stri-
ker 24.19 to accept the clip as shown in Fig. 242.
Fit the sleeve 24.20 on the stay clip and press it onto the
dolphin striker. Bend the ends of the clip to form hooks and
shorten them as shown. Press a second sleeve 25.20 onto
the dolphin striker and drill the hole for the split pin 24.17 -
Fig. 242. Seal the dolphin striker with SP-EX and paint it
white.
The dolphin striker guys 24.21 are made from braided
steel wire. Form a loop in the middle of the wire using a
crimp sleeve 24.16. Form loops at both ends, spaced 340
mm from centre. Fit the centre loop through the stay clip
24.18 on the dolphin striker, and attach the martingale
24.22 to this loop.
Push the dolphin striker onto the split pin 24.17. Adjust the
length of the martingale so that the dolphin striker is at
right-angles to the bowsprit - Fig. 243.
Attach the guys to the rear lower split pins 13.6 on the bul-
wark using two lanyards 24.23 - Fig. 244. Tension the
cords so that the dolphin striker is parallel to the stem.
Fit the forestay 24.24 between the upper split pin 11.25 at
the bowsprit and the forestay hook 23.18, and place it
under light tension; it must not pull the mast forward. The
upper sleeve of the two is not permanently secured until
later, when the final stay lengths are established.
Order No.
1140
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