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Stage 23, the masts
Part
Description
No.
23.1
Main masthead
23.2
Schooner masthead
23.3
Mast cheek
23.4
Mainmast spreader
23.5
Schooner mast spreader
23.6
Nail
23.7
Spreader frame
23.8
Transverse support
23.9
Main topmast
23.10
Schooner topmast
23.11
Topmast base
23.12
Ring
23.13
Cap connecting piece
23.14
Locking pin
23.15
Tubular rivet
23.16
Shroud hook
23.17
Sleeve
23.18
Forestay hook
23.19
Jib stay hook
23.20
Mainstay fitting
23.21
Schooner stay fitting
23.22
Masthead ring
23.23
Main topmast masthead
23.24
Schooner topmast masthead
23.25
Split pin
23.26
Split pin
23.27
Plug
23.28
Peak halyard block
23.29
Split pin
23.30
Sleeve
23.31
Forward belaying ring
23.32
Split pin
23.33
Aft belaying ring
23.34
Main boom support
-
Drill 1.5 and 2 mm Ø holes in the mastheads 23.1 and 23.2
as shown in Fig. 222.
-
Sand the pairs of mast cheeks 23.3 to a taper towards the
bottom and glue them to the mastheads - Fig. 223.
-
Sand the two mainmast spreaders 23.4 and the two scho-
oner mast spreaders 23.5 to the shape shown in the dra-
wing. Harden the ends with SP-EX, then drill 1 mm Ø holes
in them as shown in Fig. 224.
-
Fit the nails 23.6 in the holes, cut them to length and splay
the ends to retain them. The purpose of the nails is to pre-
vent the spreader tips splitting. Saw 1 mm Ø slots in the
spreader tips as shown in the detail drawing - Fig. 224.
-
Glue the spreader frames 23.7 to the mastheads. Glue the
mainmast spreaders 23.4 to the main masthead 23.1, and
the schooner mast spreader 23.5 to the schooner
masthead 23.2. Glue the lateral supports 23.8 on top and
continue the holes through them - Fig. 225.
-
The topmasts 23.9 and 23.10 are cut from thick-walled
tapered GRP tubes. Check that pieces of 6.5 mm Ø brass
tube 23.23 are an easy sliding fit in the narrow end of the
tubes. If they are too tight, there is a risk that they will split
the tubing. Shorten the tip of the tube until the brass tube
slides in easily. Apply SP-EX to strengthen the cut area.
All manuals and user guides at all-guides.com
Assembly instructions
Valdivia
Material
Machined beech
Machined beech
Plywood, ready made
Spruce
Spruce
Brass
Plywood, ready made
Spruce
GRP tube
GRP tube
Machined beech
Brass ring
Plywood, ready made
ABS
Brass
Brass rod
Brass
Brass wire
Brass wire
Brass wire
Brass wire
Brass
Brass tube
Brass tube
Brass
Brass
Beech dowel
Brass
Brass
Brass
Plastic
Brass
Plastic
Plastic
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
22
Dimensions
No.
off
12 x 12 x 170
1
12 x 12 x 170
1
3 x 27.5 x 30
4
3 x 10 x 205
2
3 x 10 x 160
2
1 x 9
8
3 x 20 x 54
2
3 x 7 x 22
2
10 Ø x 8 Ø x 440
1
10 Ø x 8 Ø x 365
1
2
12/11 Ø x 5
4
2
3 Ø x 25
2
2 Ø x 12
2
1 Ø x 80
4
2.5 Ø x 5
6
1 Ø x 120
1
1 Ø x 170
1
1 Ø x 80
1
1 Ø x 80
1
9/6.6 Ø x 6
2
6.5/5.8 Ø x 60
1
6.5/5.8 Ø x 50
1
1.5 x 1.5 x 25
1
1.5 x 1.5 x 15
7
5 Ø x 10
2
6 x 11.5
4
1.5 x 4 x 20
6
2 x 30
4
Inj.
1
1.5 x 1.5 x 25
3
Inj.
1
Inj.
1
Cut the GRP topmasts to final length.
Drill holes in the topmast bases 23.11, check that the
bases are an easy sliding fit inside the topmasts and glue
them in place, exactly in line. Sand the transition area of
both topmasts smooth.
Assemble the caps from the four rings 23.12 and the
connecting pieces 23.13.
Before gluing the caps slide the mastheads into the masts.
The remaining thick-wall GRP tube (not yet cut to length)
can now be fitted through the frame from the underside
and used as an alignment aid. Fit the cap on top, position
it carefully and glue it to the masthead.
Insert the topmasts temporarily and fit the locking pins
23.14 - Fig. 226.
Later, when the boat is fully rigged, the locking pin can be
withdrawn to allow the topmasts to be lowered. This
decreases the boat's overall height for ease of transport.
Drill a 2 mm Ø cross-hole through the fixed cap ring, glue
the tubular rivet 23.15 in the hole and splay the end lightly
to retain it - Fig. 227.
Order No.
1140
Note
Sheet C
FS
Sheet C
Thick-wall tube
Thick-wall tube
FS
Sheet E, FS
FS
FS
FS
FS
FS
FS
FS
FS
FS
FS
FS
FS
FS
FS
FS
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