Appendix A - Assembly Of Pump And Motor; Appendix B - Splicing Power Cable To Motor Leads - Xylem Goulds VS Manuel D'utilisation

SECTION 8 — TROUBLESHOOTING CHART
CONDITION
REDUCED
CAPACITY OR
INSUFFICIENT
TANK PRESSURE
PRESSURE
SWITCH
DOES NOT
CUT OUT
PUMP STARTS
TOO FREQUENTLY
APPENDIX A — ASSEMBLY OF PUMP AND
MOTOR
Most of the time, the pump and the motor are shipped
separately in two different boxes. They need to be as-
sembled together in the field prior to being installed in
the well. For the short pump (less than 5 stages), the mo-
tor and pump may be assembled together on the ground
horizontally. If the pump is over 6 stages long, it is rec-
ommended to assemble them in the vertical position.
1. Check that the pump shaft and the motor shaft turn
freely.
2. Clean the flange faces and the registers on the pump
and the motor. Remove all burrs from these areas.
Clean the exposed portion of the pump shaft and
motor shaft. If the pump is supplied with the coupling
assembled on the shaft, clean the inside of the motor-
end of the coupling.
3. Install the key on the motor shaft, if it is not the
splined shaft.
4. If the shaft coupling has setscrews in the motor half of
the coupling, loosen or remove these setscrews.
5. Align the motor with the pump and slide the mo-
tor shaft into the shaft coupling on the pump until
the shaft butts. Make sure the motor shaft lifts the
pump shaft by / " to ¼" (for enclosed impeller only).
1
8
Be careful not to damage the shaft, the coupling or
the key. Orient the motor so that the motor leads
are aligned with the notch provided in the pump's
mounting flange. If the shaft coupling has setscrews
in the motor half the coupling, install and tighten the
setscrews.
6. Install and tighten the mounting bolts (or capscrews)
on the flange.
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PROBABLE CAUSE
1. Lift too high for the pump.
2. Screen or impellers partly plugged.
3. Scaled or corroded discharge pipe or
leaks anywhere in system.
4. Well may contain excessive amounts of
air or gas.
5. Excess wear due to abrasives.
6. Three-phase pump running backward.
1. Incorrect set.
2. Switch opening plugged.
3. Leaks anywhere in system.
4. Three-phase pump running backward.
1. Water-logged tank.
2. Check valve leaking.
3. Pressure switch out of adjustment.
4. Leaks in service line.
(continued)
1. Check rating.
2. Pull pump and clean.
3. Replace pipe and repair leaks.
4. Start and stop pump several times. If this
does not remedy conditions, pump may
not be able to cooperate because of too
much gas in the well.
5. Replace worn parts.
6. Reverse rotation.
1. Change settings.
2. Pull pump and clean.
3. Repair leaks.
4. Reverse rotation.
1. a. Check tank for leaks (plug at top of
tank may be leaking air).
b. Be sure drain and 'Y' fittings are
functioning properly. Check operation
of snifter valve.
2. Replace check valve.
3. Readjust to correct setting or replace.
4. Locate and correct.
7. Unite the cableguard on the pump and reassemble it
with the motor leads under the cableguard to prevent
damaging the leads, when lowering the pump into the
well.
APPENDIX B — SPLICING POWER CABLE
TO MOTOR LEADS
A waterproof splice must be made to connect the power
cable to the motor leads. A properly made splice will
last the life of the pump. An improperly made splice will
become a service problem. In the market, there are dif-
ferent materials and methods to make waterproof cable
splices. For example: by waterproof tapes, by resin cast-
ings, by heat shrink tubes.
TAPED CABLE SPLICE:
1. Strip the insulation of each conductor of the power ca-
ble back enough to allow the conductor to extend half
way through a sleeve type connector. Crimp connec-
tor to the conductor. Strip the insulation of the motor
lead same as the power cable. Fit it into the connector
and butt against cable end. Crimp connector as before.
Pull on wire to make sure connector is firmly crimped
to both the motor lead and the power cable. Scrape
the insulation to move any loose bits of tape or thread
and roughen surface. Thoroughly clean surface with
solvent. This will insure a watertight splice.
2. Tape individual joints with rubber electrical tape. Start
at the center of the connector and tape 2" past the end
of conductor insulation end. Stretching tape about
10% while taping, overlap tapes about one half of
tape width. Make two layers. The end of second layer
should be 2" beyond the end of the first layer.
3. Tape over the rubber electrical tape with #33 Scotch
electrical tape or equivalent, using two layers as in
step #2 and making each layer overlap the end of the
preceding layer by 2".
REMEDY