Publicité
Les langues disponibles
Les langues disponibles
are flat and lie absolutely parallel to each other. Glue the hinge plates in position, ensuring that the holes
line up correctly. TIP: use a suitable length of 1 mm Ø rod to represent the screws. Glue the hinges (part
281) to the hinge plates.
•
Glue the window frames (part 282) to the bridge. NOTE: the rectangular side frames are not square; the
longer side should be vertical. You may need to adjust the openings in the bridge slightly to ensure that
the frames fit neatly.
•
Assemble the fire monitor (part 283), starting with the main monitor case. Glue the aluminium water tube
in place, followed by the water nozzle. Glue the extension (part 284) to the main case, followed by the
plinth on the underside. Attach the triangular webs (part 285) to the monitor plinth. Glue the rectangular
plates (part 286) to the main case at a slight angle as shown, then glue the two handwheels to them.
Prepare the launcher tube (part 287), fit the end-piece (part 288) on it, then glue the tube over the
aluminium tube. NOTE: the launcher tube is only a visual representation, so the water nozzle should not
project out of it.
•
Prepare the supply tube (part 289): this tube must fit through the hole in the monitor plate, and should
run in as tight a line as possible into the superstructure. You will need to cut out part of the super-
structure roof so that you can access this tube when the bridge / superstructure assembly is glued
together; this is necessary to allow you to connect the flexible silicone hose. The fire monitor is glued on
the projecting nipple of the supply tube on the monitor plate, but at a later stage.
•
Assemble the monitor plate handrail from the railing stanchions (part 290) and the railing bands (part
291).
•
Assemble the grating (part 292) from the spruce strip supplied. NOTE: the design of this grating varies
from cruiser to cruiser; the type drawn on the plan is that fitted to the Hans Hackmack. In any case the
grating should not be glued to the monitor plate until the boat has been painted.
•
Prepare each of the hydraulic cylinders (part 293) by screwing the ring-screw from a shroud tensioner
into one end, leaving 2 mm of the threads exposed. Unscrew the other end as far as possible, and
secure this end with a drop of adhesive. TIP: if you are aiming at a truly realistic simulation of the piston,
file off the threads as far as possible until only a plain rod is visible. Assemble the hydraulic cylinder
mountings (part 294), using scrap pieces of the 2 mm Ø ABS round rod as the axle. Don't glue the
cylinder assemblies in place at this stage.
•
Unclip the searchlight (part 295) from the bar, then cut out the fairing (part 296) and insert the reflector in
it. NOTE: the lateral markings for the retaining bar position are offset slightly downward, i.e. they are not
located on the centreline of the fairing. Route the power leads down and out of the searchlight. Glue the
latches (part 297) and the hand-grip (part 298) to the fairing. The searchlight can now be re-assembled.
•
Cut out the searchlight bases (part 299). NOTE: these parts are handed (different right and left); this is
indicated by a mark on the parts. Glue the cover plate (part 300) on the bases, taking care to line up the
holes correctly. Continue the holes through the plates, and glue the searchlight bases to the bridge. The
searchlights are fitted when the boat is otherwise finished, but please remember to cut an opening for
the cables.
•
Glue together the navigation lamp brackets (part 301), and glue a navigation lamp (part 302) on each
one. If you wish to fit working lights, drill a hole in each bracket to enable you to replace a burned-out
filament bulb. The completed lamp brackets are also installed when construction is otherwise complete.
•
Glue two brackets (part 304) to each of the name placards (part 303), then repeat the procedure with the
placard for the hanseatic cross (part 305) and its brackets (part 306). All the prepared placards should
be fitted once the model has been finished and painted.
•
Prepare the clear glazing panels (part 307) for the superstructure and the bridge. When the boat has
been painted, these panels should be glued on the inside of the mouldings. For gluing this clear material
be sure to use an adhesive which does not cause a 'bloom' (whitish stain) as it dries, e.g. solvent-free
cyano (also known as 'foam cyano').
•
Glue two discs to the centrifugal disc (part 308), then very carefully stick these to the glazing panels.
NOTE: the decal sheet includes alternative centrifugal discs which can be applied instead.
•
Glue together the screen wipers (part 309) and fix these to the side windows.
•
Drill the holes for the railing stanchions (part 310), thread the handrail (part 311) through the stanchions
and glue this assembly to the bridge.
•
Cut out the roof. NOTE: the kit includes window frames (part 313) for the roof windows, and alternative
window covers of the same size (part 314). On the full-size boats some of the roof windows were
subsequently welded closed to prevent the effects of blinding, and the covers can be fitted to simulate
this modification. Glue your preferred parts to the roof. If you wish to fit the window frames, you also
have to cut out the openings for the windows, then prepare the glazing panels (part 315) and glue them
in place.
•
The roof can now be glued to the bridge; you may need to adjust the rear wall of the superstructure to
ensure that the roof rests flush and 'square' when in position. Glue the side frames (part 316) to the roof;
you may have to make minor adjustments to the transitional areas between these parts.
GRAUPNER GmbH & Co. KG D-73230 KIRCHHEIM/TECK GERMANY
No liability for printing errors. Technnical modifications reserved.
All manuals and user guides at all-guides.com
#0060384
04/2009
55
Publicité
