Publicité
Les langues disponibles
Les langues disponibles
adhesive tape in such a position that one hole in the servo output arm is located exactly below the hole
in the deck. Thread the pull-cable through this hole and tie it permanently. NOTE: the system should not
be secured until final adjustment of the daughter boat lift has been completed. IMPORTANT: the pull-
cable must move freely, otherwise the system will not work reliably.
•
Glue together the starboard and port intake boxes (part 188 and 189). Glue a base plate in the bottom of
each box, and sand the undersides so that the boxes stand perpendicular to the waterline. Glue the
latches (part 191) to the hatch.
•
Cut out the parts of the two liferafts (part 192) and glue them together. Assemble the liferaft supports
(part 193), then insert the pivot axle (part 194) in the supports and fit the brackets on the outside ends of
the axle. If you glue the axle at the outside end only, the bracket remains free to rotate. The liferaft
assembly can now be glued to the intake boxes.
•
Cut out the exhaust pipe cover (part 195), and glue this to the exhaust pipe (part 196). Drill out the
opening in the ring on the intake box, and glue the exhaust pipe in the hole.
•
Cut out the two exhaust fairings (part 197). Glue one front (part 198) and one rear cover plate (part 199)
to the fairing, and drill through the holes in the forward cover plate. Glue the base plates (part 200) in the
underside of the fairings.
•
Assemble the starboard (part 201) and port (part 202) step boxes, then glue the associated base plates
(part 203 and 204) in the boxes. Cut pieces of ribbed sheet (part 205) to size, and stick them on each of
the top surfaces. Glue the stop boxes to the exhaust fairings, then sand the underside to fit snugly on the
deck, perpendicular to the waterline. Glue the retaining bar (part 206) to the step boxes. Cut out the 400
V power socket (part 207) and glue this to the exhaust fairing.
•
Note: during the following procedure it is advisable to heat up the guard bar gently before bending it to
shape. NOTE: the central strut of the transverse bar forward of the exhaust boxes should be left in place
when the bar is initially installed; it should then be cut away once the glued joints have set hard. NOTE:
the holes for the handrails are marked on the bar with the help of a railing stanchion, but only after the
guard bar has been positioned accurately. The holes can then be drilled through carefully.
•
The next step is to make up the guard bars (part 208): start by bending the two transverse bars to shape,
then drill the requisite holes in the deck and insert the bars in them. Prepare the transverse bars over the
intake boxes, continue the holes in the boxes, and insert the bars in the holes. Set the bars parallel to
each other, and secure them with a non-waterproof adhesive (e.g. white glue).
•
The two fore-and-aft bars can be prepared next: cut the parts to length in such a way that they fit exactly
between the bars once trimmed. Glue these parts together using UHU plast. Bend the rear bars to the
shape shown, then glue them in place, positioned exactly above the exhaust fairings. Make up the two
rear guard bars, insert them in the single cruciform bollards, then glue them to the shaped bars. Allow
the glue plenty of time to set hard, then mark and drill the holes for the handrails.
•
Prepare the bow railing (part 209), and glue it to the bulwark.
•
Drill the holes for the railing stanchions (part 210). Prepare the cruciform bollards (part 211) as follows:
remove the base plates from two of them, and sand the base plates of the remaining bollards in such a
way that they stand straight on the deck. Drill through the bollards so that they can be threaded onto the
railing stanchions.
•
Prepare the railing bands (part 212). Insert these in the railing stanchions, then fit them in the deck, align
the railing assembly carefully and glue it in place. Remove the guard bar from the deck once more, insert
the railing bands and make up the railing as described previously. TIP: don't glue the completed railing
assemblies to the deck until the boat has been painted. Prepare the protective caps (part 213) ready for
gluing between the railing assemblies; this stage cannot be completed until the railing has been glued to
the deck.
•
Cut out the crane base (part 214) and glue it to the deck. NOTE: not all cruisers of this class are still
fitted with the deck-mounted base. Check your chosen prototype before installing this part.
•
Cut out the anchor (part 215) and shorten it to the point where it fits inside the anchor hawse. NOTE:
once the anchor is installed, hardly anything of it is visible. Glue the anchor stock (part 216) to the
anchor.
•
Glue the inner frame (part 218) inside the superstructure (part 217). IMPORTANT: ensure that the
superstructure still fits in position on the forecastle deck coaming when the inner frame is installed.
•
Glue the rear wall (part 219) in place. IMPORTANT: ensure that the superstructure fits snugly on the
deck under no more than light pressure. Cut out the companionway (part 220) and glue it in place.
•
Glue the two wall reinforcements (part 221) to the inside of the superstructure, then glue the step treads
(part 222) to the lower steps.
•
Glue the door (part 223) to the rear wall, then fix the lock plate (part 224) to the door. Prepare the door
handle / latch (part 226) and attach it to the door.
•
Glue the ventilation grille (part 226) to the rear wall. Prepare the ventilator cover (part 227), but do not
glue it in place at this stage. NOTE: glue the cover in place only if required; it is only installed on the full-
size vessels for gas protection operations.
GRAUPNER GmbH & Co. KG D-73230 KIRCHHEIM/TECK GERMANY
No liability for printing errors. Technnical modifications reserved.
All manuals and user guides at all-guides.com
#0060384
04/2009
53
Publicité
