EDELRID OHMEGA Manuel D'utilisation page 5

In der aktiven Anwendung (Toprope) ist mit einer (deutlichen) Reduktion der
Laufleistung des OHMEGA zu rechnen.
ÜBERPRÜFUNG UND DOKUMENTATION
15 Überprüfung und Dokumentation: Bei gewerblicher Nutzung muss das
Produkt regelmäßig, mindestens einmal jährlich, vom Hersteller, einer
sachkundigen Person oder einer zugelassenen Prüfstelle überprüft wer-
den; falls erforderlich, muss es danach gewartet oder ausgesondert wer-
den. Dabei ist auch die Lesbarkeit der Produktkennzeichnung zu überprü-
fen. Die Prüfungen und Wartungsarbeiten müssen für jedes Produkt
separat dokumentiert werden. Die folgenden Informationen müssen fest-
gehalten werden: Produktkennzeichnung und -name, Herstellername und
Kontaktdaten, eindeutige Identifikation, Herstelldatum, Kaufdatum, Datum
der ersten Verwendung, Datum der nächsten planmäßigen Prüfung, Ergeb-
nis der Prüfung und Unterschrift der verantwortlichen sachkundigen Per-
son. Ein geeignetes Muster finden Sie unter www.edelrid.com.
16 Nutzungstemperatur im trockenen Zustand.
17 Kontaktdaten: Wenden Sie sich bei Fragen an uns. Die Kontaktdaten fin-
den Sie auf der Rückseite.
Gebrauchsanleitungen können sich ändern. Unter www.edelrid.com finden
Sie immer die aktuelle Version.
18 Notifizierte Stelle, die für die Ausstellung der EU-Baumusterprüfbescheini-
gung des Produktes zuständig ist.
19 Überwachende Stelle der PSA Produktion.
MATERIAL: Aluminium, Stahl, HMPE, Polyester, Polyamid
KENNZEICHNUNGEN AUF DEM GERÄT
Hersteller: EDELRID, Herstelleradresse | Modell: Produktname | Durchmes-
serbereich der zu verwendenden Seile in mm |
Anleitungen sind zu lesen und zu beachten |
Herstellung | Piktogramm zum korrekten Einlegen des Seils | Chargennum-
mer mit Herstellungsjahr | 0123: überwachende Stelle der PSA Produk-
tion | Bremsstufe bzw. Gewichtsreduzierung der kletternden Person: (+) = 10 kg,
(++) = 20 kg, (+++) = 30 kg | Zugelassener Gewichtsbereich: 40 kg – 120 kg
(siehe Punkt 2)
ZUSÄTZLICHE KENNZEICHNUNG AUF DER OHMEGA SCHLINGE
Produktbezeichnung: Rundschlinge nach EN 566:2017 | Statische Höchst-
zugkraft in kN | Artikelnummer | Bremsstufe bzw. Gewichtsreduzierung der
kletternden Person: (+) = 10 kg, (++) = 20 kg, (+++) = 30 kg
KONFORMITÄTSERKLÄRUNG
Hiermit erklärt die EDELRID GmbH & Co. KG, dass dieser mit den grundlegen-
den Anforderungen und den relevanten Vorschriften der EU-Verordnung
2016/425 übereinstimmt. Die Original-Konformitätserklärung kann unter
dem folgenden Internet-Link abgerufen werden: http://www.edelrid.com/...
Unsere Produkte werden mit größter Sorgfalt gefertigt. Sollte es dennoch An-
lass zu berechtigten Beanstandungen geben, bitten wir um die Angabe der
Chargennummer.
Technische Änderungen vorbehalten.
EN
OHMEGA, OHMEGA Sling
The product conforms to the PPE regulation (EU) 2016/425.
GENERAL SAFETY AND APPLICATION NOTES
This product is part of personal protective equipment (PPE) for protection
against falls from height and should be assigned to a person. These instruc-
tions for use contain important notes for proper practical use. These notes
must be understood before use and be adhered to during use. The reseller
must provide this document in the language spoken in the country of use and
it must be kept together with the equipment during the entire service life. The
product may only be passed on or lent in combination with the instructions for
use, commercially or free of charge. However, mere reading of the instructions
for use cannot replace experience, responsible action and knowledge re-
quired for mountaineering, climbing, and working at height or depth; and it
cannot free users from bearing their personal risk. The product must be used
exclusively by trained, experienced persons or after direct instruction and di-
rect supervision by trained and experienced persons. The product must be
used exclusively in connection with CE marked components of personal pro-
tective equipment offering protection against falls. If this product is combined
with other components, these may mutually affect safety. The person using
the equipment or supervising users is responsible for ensuring the compatibil-
ity of the components and anchorage points. Poor physical and/or mental
health can jeopardize safety under normal conditions and in case of emergen-
cy. Mountaineering, climbing, and work at a height or depth often entail hid-
den risks and hazards from external influences. Errors and carelessness may
cause severe accidents, injuries, and even death. The equipment must not be
altered in any way not expressly recommended by the manufacturer in writing.
The ready-for-use condition and proper function of the equipment must be
checked and ensured before and after each use. The product must be discard-
ed immediately if there is any doubt as to its safe use. In case of abuse and/
or improper use, the manufacturer refuses any liability. The responsibility and
risks lie with the users or persons responsible for the operation. Additionally,
it is recommended to observe the national rules for the application of the
product. Personal protective equipment is exclusively designed for securing of
persons. Before using the equipment, the user must draw up a rescue concept
that ensures a person falling into a PPE is rescued immediately, safely, and
effectively. Attention: Failure to observe these instructions for use may lead to
severe injury or even death!
PRODUCT-SPECIFIC INFORMATION, FIGURE CAPTIONS
OHMEGA
Before and during use check tightness of all screw connections! Springs and
spring elements are subject to wear and tear. Springs lose tension over their
service life and can break in the event of overload or wear, thereby partially or
completely losing their function. All spring-loaded functions and elements
must be checked for proper functioning before use.
Attention: The OHMEGA is no substitute for adequate belaying of partners! In
any case, a suitable belaying technique with the appropriate equipment must
be employed independent of the OHMEGA.
The additional friction generated by the device depends on the device settings
selected (see point 3), the thickness and condition of the rope, moisture, and
other factors (rain, temperature, weight of persons, etc.). Heat, cold, humidity,
icing, oil, and dust can impair the function. It is the user's responsibility to fa-
miliarize himself with these factors before each use.
The device is approved for single ropes with a diameter between 8.6 mm and
10.5 mm.
ATTENTION: The diameter of commercially available ropes can deviate from
the nominal value by up to 0.2 mm.
OHMEGA SLING
The OHMEGA sling is used to connect the OHMEGA to a karabiner to EN
12275 or EN 362 for attachment of the OHMEGA to the intermediate belaying
point and setting of various braking levels. It should be noted that even suitable
knots can reduce the strength of slings by up to 50 %. The sling must not be
exposed to any damaging influences. This includes contact with corrosive and
aggressive substances (e.g., acid, lye, soldering water, oils, cleaning agents) as
well as extreme temperatures and flying sparks. Sharp edges, moisture and, in
particular, icing can severely impair the strength of textile products.
1 =Correct use;
injury;
2 Nomenclature (Fig. 1a): A – OHMEGA sling, B – Pulling aid, C – Bolt for
replacing the sling, D – Movable side part, E – Rope channel, F – Push
button for opening, G – Rope pulley, H – Clamping lever, I – Place for indi-
vidual marking
The Ohmega is supplied with a sling fitted. If the sling exceeds the speci-
fied maximum service life or maximum useful life or is damaged, it can be
replaced by the user. When reinserting (Fig. 1b), the screw must be se-
cured with threadlocker and tightened to a torque of 6 Nm. Only the EDEL-
RID Ohmega sling may be used.
3 The device is a brake assistant for rope teams, primarily intended to re-
duce the momentum and forces acting on the belayer. The device is at-
tached to the first intermediate belaying point and, in the event of a fall at
any point in the belaying chain, increases the rope friction depending on
the set braking level. The three braking levels correspond to a decrease in
the weight of the climber by 10 kg (+), 20 kg (++) or 30 kg (+++). The de-
vice brakes both in the event of a fall directly into the device (active func-
tion) and in the event of a fall at any point above the second intermediate
belaying point (passive function). The specified compensation values are
the minimum values to be expected. The actual values are generally high-
er, depending on the rope, the weight of the persons, additional friction in
the system and other factors.
ATTENTION: In each case, a rope team must decide whether the present weight
difference between the belaying and the climbing person is sufficient for safe
Die Warnhinweise und climbing, considering all other safety measures taken (e.g., use of the OHME-
YYYY MM: Jahr und Monat der GA). Additionally, each rope team must decide which braking level should be set
considering the individual factors in the rope team and the climbing route. The
braking effect in the system should be tested before the first belaying.
The minimum permissible weight of the belaying person is 40 kg. The maximum
permissible weight of the climbing person is 120 kg. The weight of the climbing
person must be at least equal to the set compensation value plus 20 kg, as it
may otherwise not be possible to lower the person climbing due to excessive
friction. Use with ropes at the lower limit of the approved rope diameter and/
or lead climbers at the upper limit of the approved weight range is recom-
mended only for skilled and experienced belayers.
4 Setting of the brake levels and their effect in case of a fall under active and
passive load.
In braking stage (++), we recommend the girth hitch, as the carabiner is
less securely fixed and the sling can move more flexibly.
5 Correct insertion of the rope.
5c Incorrect insertion direction of the rope.
5d Device not closed completely.
6 Correct installation for lead climbing on the first bolt. The device should
be attached as direct as close as possible to the bolt and must not be
extended by additional slings or carabiners.
In order to ensure that the Ohmega can activate reliably, the distance to
the next intermediate belay above the Ohmega must be big enough to
avoid that the Ohmega can be pulled into the carabiner of the next quick-
draw in the event of a lead climbers fall.
6a Prepared mounting. Attach the device to the first intermediate belaying
point. As the lead climber, place the rope in the device as you climb past
and close it.
6b Preparation at the harness. Place the rope in the device before starting to
climb, close the device, attach it to the harness and transport it along with
it. At the first intermediate belaying point, remove the device from the
harness and attach it to the first intermediate belaying point.
6c Pay attention to the correct orientation of the device when attaching it,
especially when the braking level is set to (++). In braking stage (++), the
device cannot compensate for twists and the carabiner can become un-
hooked due to the tight fixation of the sling on the bolt.
7 To prevent the OHMEGA from detaching from the belaying point, the kar-
abiner must always be attached with its opening pointing in the direction
opposite to the climbing direction. If you want to completely eliminate this
risk, use a suitable gate-lock karabiner.
8a Admissible intermediate belays are all intermediate belays, that can reli-
ably withstand a downward and upward pull.
8b When using the Ohmega with trad gear, ensure that they can reliably with-
stand downward and upward pull forces. The Ohmega should always be
attached as directly as possible to the bolt. Extended attachment of the
Ohmega reduces the braking effect.
9 To ensure the device functions properly, the belaying person must always
stand at least one meter behind or one meter sideways of the vertical
plumb point below the OHMEGA. Lateral offset is preferable, especially
for routes that are less than vertical. The angle between the incoming and
outgoing rope in the Ohmega must not exceed 165°, otherwise the device
will not activate.
10a Correct use and installation of the product for top-rope climbing.
10b When the OHMEGA is used for redirection of the rope in top-rope climb-
ing, redundancy must be achieved, for example by using at least one ad-
ditional express sling set.
Attention: In case of permanent top-rope climbing with an OHMEGA used
for rope deflection, a significant reduction of the service life must be ex-
pected.
10c Belaying of a top-rope climber with a single OHMEGA used for deflection
is not admissible.
11 Possibility of removing the device from the wall when dismantling the
route without losing the device's braking effect:
- The climber attaches himself to the intermediate belaying point below
the OHMEGA using an express sling set.
- The belaying person takes the load off the rope.
- The climber removes the OHMEGA from the intermediate belaying point
and attaches it to the central ring on the harness.
- The belaying person pulls the rope taut; the climber detaches himself
from the intermediate belaying point and continues the lowering pro-
cess.
ATTENTION: Be aware of the danger of swinging in overhangs and on sloping
routes!
MAINTENANCE, STORAGE, AND TRANSPORT
12 Correct storage and transport
13a, b Maintenance: Commercial disinfectants based on alcohol (isopropa-
nol) may be used if necessary. The joints of metal parts and bearings
must be cleansed regularly and then be lubricated with acid-free oil or
a lubricant based on PTFE or silicone.
=Incorrect use; =Potential risk of accident or
= Warning: Danger to life
SERVICE LIFE AND REPLACEMENT
14a Maximum service life in years: The maximum service life corresponds to
the time from the date of manufacture to discard state. Products made of
synthetic fibers (Polyamide, Polyester, Dyneema
subject to some aging even if not used; their service life especially de-
pends on the intensity of the ultraviolet radiation and other climatic con-
ditions they are exposed to.
High-strength polyethylene fibers have a lower melting point (140 °C)
than other synthetic fibers and a much lower coefficient of friction, which
can make such textile products more difficult to control during use.
14b Maximum useful life providing proper use and no detectable signs of wear
showing as well as under optimum storage conditions. The maximum
useful life corresponds to the time from the date of first use to discard
state. At the end of the useful life or at the latest at the end of the maxi-
mum service life, the product must be removed from use.
Frequent use or extremely high loads may substantially reduce the service life.
Therefore, before every use, check the product for possible damage and correct
function. If any of the following points apply, immediately remove the product
from use and turn it over to an adequately qualified person or the manufacturer
for inspection and/or repair (we do not claim this list is complete):
- if there are doubts concerning safe use;
- if sharp edges have the potential to damage the rope or hurt the user;
- if signs of damage are visible (e.g., fissures, plastic deformation);
- if the material shows signs of strong corrosion or if it has come in contact
with chemicals;
- if the edges of webbing are damaged or if fibers have been pulled from the
webbing;
- if visible signs of abrasion show on seams;
- if the pulley cannot rotate freely;
- if sharp edges are located on the metal parts;
- if abrasion is extensive on metal parts, i.e., loss of material;
- if the lock can no longer be closed;
- if a hard fall load has occurred;
The operating principle of the OHMEGA is based on a bearing-mounted roller.
Depending on the load and the lubrication condition, the service life of bearing
is limited.
In passive applications, the expected service life of the OHMEGA with a load
of 80 kg is minimum 200,000 m.
In active use (top-rope climbing), a (substantial) reduction of the service life of
the OHMEGA must be expected.
INSPECTION AND DOCUMENTATION
15 Inspection and documentation: In case of commercial use, the product
must be inspected regularly, at least once a year, by the manufacturer, an
adequately qualified person, or an approved inspection body/agency;
thereafter it may have to be serviced or removed from use. The legibility
of the markings must be checked as well. Such inspections and service
must be documented for each product. The following information must be
recorded: product identification and name, manufacturer's name and
contact details, unique identification, date of manufacture, date of pur-
chase, date of initial use, date of next regular inspection, result of inspec-
tion, and signature of qualified person responsible. A suitable specimen is
found online at www.edelrid.com
16 Temperature during use in dry conditions.
17 Contact details: Contact us if you have any questions. You will find the
contact details on the back page.
Instructions for use are subject to change. At www.edelrid.com you will
always find the latest version.
18 Identification of the notified body responsible for issuing the EU Type Ap-
proval Certificate of the product.
19 Notified body monitoring the PPE production.
MATERIAL: Aluminum, steel, HMPE, polyester, polyamide
PRODUCT LABELLING
Manufacturer: EDELRID, manufacturer's address | model: Product name, di-
ameter range of the ropes to be used in mm |
instructions must be read and observed | YYYY MM: Year and month of
manufacture | pictogram for correct insertion of the rope | batch number
with year of manufacture | 0123: Notified body monitoring the PPE pro-
duction |Braking level resp. decrease of the weight of the climber: (+) = 10 kg,
(++) = 20 kg, (+++) = 30 kg | Approved weight range: 40 kg – 120 kg (see also
point 2)
ADDITIONAL LABELING ON THE OHMEGA SLING
Product designation: Round sling to EN 566:2017 | Maximum static tensile
strength in kN | Article number |Braking level resp. decrease of the weight of
the climber: (+) = 10 kg, (++) = 20 kg, (+++) = 30 kg
DECLARATION OF CONFORMITY
EDELRID GmbH & Co. KG herewith declares that this product is in conformity
with the essential requirements and the relevant provisions of EU regulation
2016/425. The original Declaration of Conformity can be downloaded at the
following site on the internet: http://www.edelrid.com/...
Our products are made with greatest care. If you find any justified cause for
complaint, please indicate the lot number of the product concerned.
Technical changes reserved.
FR
OHMEGA, sangle OHMEGA
Le produit est conforme au règlement européen relatif aux EPI (UE)
2016/425.
CONSIGNES GÉNÉRALES DE SÉCURITÉ ET D'UTILISATION
Ce produit fait partie d'un équipement de protection individuelle (EPI) visant à
éviter les chutes de hauteur et doit être attribué à une seule personne. Ce
mode d'emploi comprend des informations importantes pour une utilisation
appropriée et adaptée à la pratique. Ces consignes doivent avoir été bien
comprises avant l'utilisation du produit et doivent être respectées pendant
l'utilisation. Ces documents doivent être mis à la disposition des utilisateurs et
utilisatrices par le revendeur dans la langue du pays de destination et doivent
être conservés avec l'équipement pendant toute la durée d'utilisation. Le pro-
duit ne peut être cédé ou prêté, à titre commercial ou gratuit, qu'en combinai-
son avec le mode d'emploi. La seule lecture de ce mode d'emploi ne pourra
cependant jamais remplacer l'expérience, la responsabilité personnelle et le
savoir sur les risques pouvant survenir lors de l'escalade, de l'alpinisme et des
travaux en hauteur et en profondeur et ne libère pas du risque personnel.
L'utilisation est uniquement autorisée pour les personnes formées et expéri-
mentées ou avec les conseils et sous la surveillance directe de personnes
formées et expérimentées. Le produit doit uniquement être utilisé en associa-
tion avec des composants – portant le sigle CE – d'équipements de protection
individuelle contre les chutes. La combinaison de ce produit avec d'autres
composants entraîne le risque d'interférences lors de l'utilisation. La per-
sonne utilisant le produit ou chargée de la surveillance est responsable de la
compatibilité des composants de l'équipement et des points d'ancrage. Un
® , Aramid, Vectran ® ) are
The warning messages and