Body And Hand Position; Clamping The Workpiece; Support For Long Pieces; Cutting Picture Frames, Shadow Boxes And Other Four-Sided Projects - DeWalt DW717 (120 Volt) Guide D'utilisation

For varied cutting applications, refer to the list of
recommended saw blades for your saw and select the
one that best fits your needs (Page 5).
BODY AND HAND POSITION (FIG. 13A)
Proper positioning of your body and hands when operating
the miter saw will make cutting easier, more accurate and
safer. Never place hands near cutting area. Place hands
no closer than 6" (152.4 mm) from the blade. Hold the
workpiece tightly to the table and the fence when cutting.
Keep hands in position until the trigger has been released
and the blade has completely stopped. ALWAYS MAKE
DRY RUNS (UNPOWERED) BEFORE FINISH CUTS SO
THAT YOU CAN CHECK THE PATH OF THE BLADE.
DO NOT CROSS HANDS, AS SHOWN IN FIGURE 13B.
Keep both feet firmly on the floor and maintain proper
balance. As you move the miter arm left and right, follow
it and stand slightly to the side of the saw blade. Sight
through the guard louvers when following a pencil line.

CLAMPING THE WORKPIECE

WARNING: To reduce the risk of serious personal
injury, turn off the tool and disconnect it from the power
source before attempting to move it, change accessories
or make any adjustments accept as written in laser
adjustment instructions.
WARNING: A workpiece that is clamped, balanced
and secure before a cut may become unbalanced after
a cut is completed. An unbalanced load may tip the
saw or anything the saw is attached to, such as a table
or workbench. When making a cut that may become
unbalanced, properly support the workpiece and ensure
the saw is firmly bolted to a stable surface. Personal injury
may occur.
WARNING: The clamp foot must remain clamped above
the base of the saw whenever the clamp is used. Always
clamp the workpiece to the base of the saw–not to any
other part of the work area. Ensure the clamp foot is not
clamped on the edge of the base of the saw.
If you cannot secure the workpiece on the table and
against the fence by hand, (irregular shape, etc.) or your
hand would be less than 6" (152.4 mm) from the blade, a
clamp or other fixture must be used.
For best results use the DW7082 clamp made for use with
your saw. Another type of clamp may be supplied with
your DW717. To purchase the DW7082 contact your local
retailer or D WALT service center.
E
Other aids such as spring clamps, bar clamps or C-clamps
may be appropriate for certain sizes and shapes of
material. Use care in selecting and placing these clamps.
Take time to make a dry run before making the cut. The
left or right fence will slide from side to side to aid in
clamping.
FIG. 14
FIG. 16
TO INSTALL CLAMP
1. Insert it into the hole behind the fence. The clamp
should be facing toward the back of the miter saw. The
groove on the clamp rod should be fully inserted into
the base. Ensure this groove is fully inserted into the
base of the miter saw.
If the groove is visible, the clamp will not be secure.
2. Rotate the clamp 180º toward the front of the miter
saw.
3. Loosen the knob to adjust the clamp up or down,
then use the fine adjust knob to firmly clamp the
workpiece.
NOTE: Place the clamp on the opposite side of the
base when beveling. ALWAYS MAKE DRY RUNS
(UNPOWERED) BEFORE FINISH CUTS TO CHECK THE
PATH OF THE BLADE. ENSURE THE CLAMP DOES
NOT INTERFERE WITH THE ACTION OF THE SAW OR
GUARDS.
WARNING: A workpiece that is clamped, balanced and
secure before a cut may become unbalanced after a cut
is completed. An unbalanced load may tip the saw or
anything the saw is attached to, such as a table or workbench.
When making a cut that may become unbalanced,
properly support the workpiece and ensure the saw is
firmly bolted to a stable surface.
WARNING: The clamp foot must remain clamped above
the base of the saw whenever the clamp is used. Always
clamp the workpiece to the base of the saw–not to any
other part of the work area. Ensure the clamp foot is not
clamped on the edge of the base of the saw.

SUPPORT FOR LONG PIECES

WARNING: To reduce the risk of serious personal injury,
turn off the tool and disconnect it from the power source
before attempting to move it, change accessories or make
any adjustments accept as written in laser adjustment
instructions.
11 11
ALWAYS SUPPORT LONG PIECES.
FIG. 15
Never use another person as a substitute for a table
A
extension; as additional support for a workpiece that is
longer or wider than the basic miter saw table or to help
feed, support or pull the workpiece.
For best results, use the DW7080 extension work support
B to extend the table width of your saw. Available from your
dealer at extra cost. Support long workpieces using any
convenient means such as sawhorses or similar devices
to keep the ends from dropping.
CUTTING PICTURE FRAMES, SHADOW BOXES AND
OTHER FOUR-SIDED PROJECTS
To best understand how to make the items listed here,
we suggest that you try a few simple projects using scrap
wood until you develop a "FEEL" for your saw.
ANGLE "A"
Your saw is the perfect tool for mitering corners like the one
shown in Figure 14. Sketch A in Figure 15 shows a joint
made by using the bevel adjustment to bevel the edges of
the two boards at 45º each to produce a 90º corner. For
this joint the miter arm was locked in the zero position and
the bevel adjustment was locked at 45º. The wood was
positioned with the broad flat side against the table and
the narrow edge against the fence. The cut could also
be made by mitering right and left with the broad surface
against the fence.

CUTTING TRIM MOLDING AND OTHER FRAMES

Sketch B in Figure 14 shows a joint made by setting the
miter arm at 45º to miter the two boards to form a 90º
corner. To make this type of joint, set the bevel adjustment
to zero and the miter arm to 45º. Once again, position the
wood with the broad flat side on the table and the narrow
edge against the fence.
The two sketches in Figure 15 are for four side objects
only.
As the number of sides changes, so do the miter and
bevel angles. The chart below gives the proper angles for
a variety of shapes.
(The chart assumes that all sides are of equal length.) For
a shape that is not shown in the chart, use the following
formula. 180º divided by the number of sides equals the
miter (if the material is cut vertically) or bevel angle (if the
material is cut laying flat).
NO. SIDES
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
- EXAMPLES -
ANGLE MITER OR BEVEL
45°
36°
30°
25.7°
22.5°
20°
18°