Bevel Cuts; Quality Of Cut; Body And Hand Position - DeWalt DW718 120 Volt Guide D'utilisation

A crosscut is made by cutting wood across the grain at any
angle. A straight crosscut is made with the miter arm at the
zero degree position. Set and lock the miter arm at zero,
hold the wood firmly on the table and against the fence.
With the rail lock knob tightened, turn on the saw by
squeezing the trigger switch shown in Figure 4.
When the saw comes up to speed (about 1 second) lower
the arm smoothly and slowly to cut through the wood. Let
the blade come to a full stop before raising arm.
When cutting anything larger than a 2 x 8 (2 x 6 at 45
degree miter) use an out-down-back motion with the rail
lock knob loosened. Pull the saw out, toward you, lower the
saw head down toward the workpiece, and slowly push the
saw back to complete the cut. Do not allow the saw to
contact the top of the workpiece while pulling out. The saw
may run toward you, possibly causing personal injury or
damage to the workpiece.
NOTE: To provide greater crosscut capacity with reduced
stroke the blade on the DW718 extends deeper into the
table. As a result a greater lifting force on the workpiece
may be experienced during the cut.
CAUTION: Always use a work clamp to maintain control
and reduce the risk of workpiece damage and personal
injury.
NOTE: The rail lock knob shown in Figure 4 must be loose
to allow the saw to slide along its rails.
Miter crosscuts are made with the miter arm at some angle
other than zero. This angle is often 45 degrees for making
corners, but can be set anywhere from zero to 50 degrees
left or right. Make the cut as described above.
When cutting wider workpieces wider than a 2 x 6 that are
shorter in length, always place the longer side against the
fence (Fig. 12).

BEVEL CUTS

A bevel cut is a crosscut made with the saw blade at an
angle to the wood. In order to set the bevel, loosen the
bevel lock handle, lift the bevel latch lever, Figure 4, and
move the saw to the left or right as desired. (It is necessary
to move the fence to allow clearance). Once the desired
bevel angle has been set, tighten the bevel clamp handle
firmly.
Bevel angles can be set from 48 degrees right to
48 degrees left and can be cut with the miter arm set
between 50 degrees right or 60 degrees left. At some
extreme angles, the right or left side fence might have to
be removed. To remove the left or right fence, unscrew
the Fence Adjustment Knob several turns and slide the
fence out.

QUALITY OF CUT

The smoothness of any cut depends on a number of variables.
Things like material being cut, blade type, blade sharpness
and rate of cut all contribute to the quality of the cut.
FIG. 11
FIG. 12
When smoothest cuts are desired for molding and other
precision work, a sharp (60 tooth carbide) blade and a
slower, even cutting rate will produce the desired results.
Ensure that material does not creep while cutting, clamp it
securely in place. Always let the blade come to a full stop
before raising arm.
If small fibers of wood still split out at the rear of the work-
piece, stick a piece of masking tape on the wood where the
cut will be made. Saw through the tape and carefully
remove tape when finished.
For varied cutting applications, refer to the list of recom-
mended saw blades for your saw and select the one that
best fits your needs (page 4).
9
FIG. 13A
PROPER CUT
FIG. 13B
IMPROPER CUT
BODY AND HAND POSITION (FIG. 13A)
Proper positioning of your body and hands when operating
the miter saw will make cutting easier, more accurate and
safer. Never place hands near cutting area. Place hands
no closer than 6" from the blade. Hold the workpiece tight-
ly to the table and the fence when cutting. Keep hands in
position until the trigger has been released and the blade
has completely stopped. ALWAYS MAKE DRY RUNS
(UNPOWERED) BEFORE FINISH CUTS SO THAT YOU
CAN CHECK THE PATH OF THE BLADE. DO NOT
CROSS HANDS, AS SHOWN IN FIGURE 13B.
Keep both feet firmly on the floor and maintain proper bal-
ance. As you move the miter arm left and right, follow it and