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Cover Hem
A majority of ready-to-wear garments are made by a
flat construction method for hems with the side seam
sewn last. Many home sewers prefer sewing "in the
round" (tubular sewing).
Sewing the Cover Hem
"In the Round"
Method 1
Fold and press the hem allowance and place fabric
under the presser foot. Use markings on the sewing
table as a sewing guide. Stitch around the hem and,
upon reaching the original start point, overlap the
stitches approximately 13 mm (1/2") and stop. Cut the
needle threads after giving them a little slack. Remove
fabric from machine. Pull threads to underside and tie
off. Apply a small amount of seam sealant to knotted
threads.
Method 2
Stitch around the hem; overlap the original starting
point for about 13 mm (1/2"). Stop the machine and
turn the handwheel towards you to bring needles to the
lowest position into the fabric. Carefully turn the
handwheel in reverse, bringing needles to the highest
position. This technique prevents the needle
threads from wrapping around the chain looper. Set
the Brown tension dial to "0". Raise the presser foot
and press the tension release lever. Firmly pull fabric
and threads to the left. Cut and pull threads to the
underside to tie off. Apply a small amount of seam
sealant to knotted threads. Reset the Brown tension
dial to "N".
When sewing a cover hem over bulky seams it will be
necessary to adjust foot pressure to 1 when reaching
seam to prevent skipped stitches. After the foot has
"cleared" the seam, return to normal pressure of 5.
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