DeWalt DW715 Guide D'utilisation page 12

For best results use the DW7082 clamp made for use with your saw. It is available for
purchase at your local retailer or D WALT service center (Fig. 1).
E
Other aids such as spring clamps, bar clamps or C-clamps may be appropriate for certain
sizes and shapes of material. Use care in selecting and placing these clamps. Take time to
make a dry run before making the cut. The left fence will slide from side to side to aid in
clamping
TO INSTALL CLAMP (SOLD SEPARATELY (FIG. 1)
1. Insert the clamp into the hole behind the fence. The clamp should be facing toward the
back of the miter saw. The groove on the clamp rod should be fully inserted into the base.
Ensure this groove is fully inserted into the base of the miter saw. If the groove is visible,
the clamp will not be secure.
2. Rotate the clamp 180º toward the front of the miter saw.
3. Loosen the knob to adjust the clamp up or down, then use the fine adjust knob to firmly
clamp the workpiece.
NOTE: Place the clamp on the opposite side of the base when beveling. ALWAYS MAKE
DRY RUNS (UNPOWERED) BEFORE FINISH CUTS TO CHECK THE PATH OF THE BLADE.
ENSURE THE CLAMP DOES NOT INTERFERE WITH THE ACTION OF THE SAW OR
GUARDS.
WARNING: A workpiece that is clamped, balanced and secure before a cut may become
unbalanced after a cut is completed. An unbalanced load may tip the saw or anything the
saw is attached to, such as a table or workbench. When making a cut that may become
unbalanced, properly support the workpiece and ensure the saw is firmly bolted to a stable
surface.
WARNING: The clamp foot must remain clamped above the base of the saw whenever
the clamp is used. Always clamp the workpiece to the base of the saw–not to any other part
of the work area. Ensure the clamp foot is not clamped on the edge of the base of the saw.
SUPPORT FOR LONG PIECES (FIG. 1)
WARNING: To reduce the risk of serious personal injury, turn off the tool and
disconnect it from the power source before attempting to move it, change
accessories or make any adjustments.
ALWAYS SUPPORT LONG PIECES.
Never use another person as a substitute for a table extension; as additional support for a
workpiece that is longer or wider than the basic miter saw table or to help feed, support or
pull the workpiece.
For best results, use the DW7080 extension work support to extend the table width of your
saw. These are available from your dealer at extra cost.
Support long workpieces using any convenient means such as sawhorses or similar devices
to keep the ends from dropping.
CUTTING PICTURE FRAMES, SHADOW BOXES AND OTHER FOUR-SIDED
PROJECTS
To best understand how to make the items listed here, we suggest that you try a few simple
projects using scrap wood until you develop a "FEEL" for your saw.
Your saw is the perfect tool for mitering corners like the one shown in Figure 13. Sketch A in
Figure 12 shows a joint made by using the bevel adjustment to bevel the edges of the two
boards at 45° each to produce a 90° corner. For this joint the miter arm was locked in the
zero position and the bevel adjustment was locked at 45°. The wood was positioned with the
broad flat side against the table and the narrow edge against the fence. The cut could also
be made by mitering right and left with the broad surface against the fence.
FIG. 12
A
13
FIG.
CUTTING TRIM MOLDING AND OTHER FRAMES
Sketch B in Figure 12 shows a joint made by setting the miter arm at 45° to miter the two
boards to form a 90° corner. To make this type of joint, set the bevel adjustment to zero and
the miter arm to 45°. Once again, position the wood with the broad flat side on the table and
the narrow edge against the fence.
The two sketches in Figure 12 are for four side objects only.
As the number of sides changes, so do the miter and bevel angles. The chart below gives the
proper angles for a variety of shapes.
NO. SIDES
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
(The chart assumes that all sides are of equal length.) For a shape that is not shown in the
chart, use the following formula. 180° divided by the number of sides equals the miter (if the
material is cut vertically) or bevel angle (if the material is cut laying flat).
CUTTING COMPOUND MITERS
A compound miter is a cut made using a miter angle and a bevel angle at the same time.
This is the type of cut used to make frames or boxes with slanting sides like the one shown
in Figure 14.
NOTE: If the cutting angle varies from cut to cut, check that the bevel clamp knob and the
miter lock lever are securely tightened. These knobs must be tightened after making any
changes in bevel or miter.
10
B
FIG. 14
ANGLE « A »
- EXAMPLES -
ANGLE MITER OR BEVEL
45°
36°
30°
25.7°
22.5°
20°
18°