DeWalt DW715 Guide D'utilisation page 11

CAUTION: Always use a work clamp to maintain control and reduce the risk of workpiece
damage and personal injury.
When the saw comes up to speed (about 1 second) lower the arm smoothly and slowly to cut
through the wood. Let the blade come to a full stop before raising arm.
Miter crosscuts are made with the miter arm at some angle other than zero. This angle is often
45° for making corners, but can be set anywhere from zero to 50° left or right. After selecting
the desired miter angle, be sure to lock miter lock lever. Make the cut as described above.
To cut through an existing pencil line on a piece of wood, match the angle as close as
possible. Cut the wood a little too long and measure from the pencil line to the cut edge to
determine which direction to adjust the miter angle and recut. This will take some practice,
but it is a commonly used technique.
BEVEL CUTS (FIG. 8, 19)
A bevel cut is a crosscut made with the saw blade at a bevel to the wood. In order to set the
bevel, loosen the bevel clamp knob (L) and move the saw to the left as desired. (It is necessary
to move the fence to allow clearance). Once the desired bevel angle has been set, tighten the
bevel clamp knob firmly.
Bevel angles can be set up to 48° left and can be cut with the miter arm set between zero
and 50° right or left. At some extreme angles, the left side fence might have to be removed.
To remove the left fence, unscrew the fence locking knob (R) several turns and slide the fence
out.
QUALITY OF CUT
The smoothness of any cut depends on a number of variables. Things like material being
cut, blade type, blade sharpness and rate of cut all contribute to the quality of the cut.
When smoothest cuts are desired for molding and other precision work, a sharp (60 tooth
carbide) blade and a slower, even cutting rate will produce the desired results.
Ensure that material does not creep while cutting, clamp it securely in place. Always let the
blade come to a full stop before raising arm.
If small fibers of wood still split out at the rear of the workpiece, stick a piece of masking tape
on the wood where the cut will be made. Saw through the tape and carefully remove tape
when finished.
For varied cutting applications, refer to the list of recommended saw blades for your saw and
select the one that best fits your needs. Refer to Saw Blades under Accessories.
BODY AND HAND POSITION (FIG. 11)
Proper positioning of your body and hands when operating the miter saw will make cutting
easier, more accurate and safer. Never place hands near cutting area. Place hands no closer
than 6" (152 mm) from the blade. Hold the workpiece tightly to the table and the fence
when cutting. Keep hands in position until the trigger has been released and the blade has
completely stopped. ALWAYS MAKE DRY RUNS (UNPOWERED) BEFORE FINISH CUTS SO
THAT YOU CAN CHECK THE PATH OF THE BLADE. DO NOT CROSS ARMS, AS SHOWN
IN FIGURE 11.
Keep both feet firmly on the floor and maintain proper balance. As you move the miter arm
left and right, follow it and stand slightly to the side of the saw blade. Sight through the guard
louvers when following a pencil line.
CLAMPING THE WORKPIECE
WARNING: To reduce the risk of serious personal injury, turn off the tool and
disconnect it from the power source before attempting to move it, change
accessories or make any adjustments.
WARNING: A workpiece that is clamped, balanced and secure before a cut may become
unbalanced after a cut is completed. An unbalanced load may tip the saw or anything the
saw is attached to, such as a table or workbench. When making a cut that may become
unbalanced, properly support the workpiece and ensure the saw is firmly bolted to a stable
surface. Personal injury may occur.
FIG. 11
PROPER CUT
IMPROPER CUT
WARNING: The clamp foot must remain clamped above the base of the saw whenever
the clamp is used. Always clamp the workpiece to the base of the saw–not to any other part
of the work area. Ensure the clamp foot is not clamped on the edge of the base of the saw.
CAUTION: Always use a work clamp to maintain control and reduce the risk of workpiece
damage and personal injury.
If you cannot secure the workpiece on the table and against the fence by hand, (irregular
shape, etc.) or your hand would be less than 6" (152 mm) from the blade, a clamp or other
fixture must be used.
9
PROPER CUT
IMPROPER CUT
IMPROPER CUT