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to raise a burr; it is unlikely to take more than 50 left slot pulls to create the burr. When a burr is
confirmed, proceed to Step 3.
Step 3 – formIng the fInal edge (rIght handed Blade)
a. Make five (5) regular pulls 3-4 seconds only in the left slot of Stage 2 and then proceed to step b.
below to remove any burr.
b. Make one (1) regular pull in right slot of Stage 2 along the back side of the edge.
c. Make several pairs of fast pulls (one [1] second each) in Stage 2 alternating in the left and right slots
of Stage 2. The fast pulls with ultrafine abrasives polish the facet on the front side of the blade as well
as the rear microfacet to create an extremely sharp edge.
d. Check the blade carefully for sharpness using a thin sheet of paper. The blade should be razor sharp.
If not razor sharp repeat step 3c. above and retest the blade for sharpness.
reSharpenIng the tradItIonal JapaneSe Blade (rIght handed)
In general you will be able to resharpen quickly by making 3 or 4 pairs of fast pulls alternating in
the left and right slots of Stage 2. Repeat this if necessary to obtain a razor sharp edge.
When resharpening only in Stage 2 becomes too slow to develop a sharp edge or if the edge
has been damaged you will need to re-hone the edge in Stage 1. Use only the left slot of
Stage 1. Generally you will find that about five (5) re-honing pulls will be sufficient in Stage 1 to
speed the resharpening in Stage 2. After re-honing return to Stage 2 and repeat Step 3 above.
SharpenIng left handed tradItIonal BladeS
The procedure you must use with left handed blades is similar to that procedure for right handed
blades as detailed above – Except, in all cases the slots you must use are reversed. Where the
sharpening procedure for right handed blades calls for use of the left slot, you must use the right
slot when sharpening a left-handed blade. Likewise use the left slot where the right handed
instructions call for using the right slot.
proCedure for SharpenIng Serrated BladeS
Serrated blades are available in multiple sizes and shapes and can include full length and partial
length serrations. Serrations are formed by the manufacturers based on their design criteria, by
grinding scalloped depressions, or grooves on only one side of the blade.
The Model 315XV sharpener will restore the pointed teeth of the serrations, which do most of
the cutting, and develop sharp microblades along the edge of these teeth.
If your serrated blade edge has light wear, then only minimal effort is required to re-sharp-
en the edge, using only Stage 2. First you need to establish on which side of the blade the
serrations are formed. If the serrations are on the right side of the blade (as you would hold
the knife when cutting) then re-sharpen the blade in the right slot of Stage 2. Slowly pull
the knife (about 4-5 seconds per pull for an 8" blade, less for shorter blades and more for
longer ones) through the sharpener. The stropping/polishing disk in Stage 2 will only sharpen the
non-grooved side of the blade.
After 5 to 6 slow pulls through the right slot, finish by slowly pulling the knife through left slot of
Stage 2, two times. Then check the edge for sharpness. The above process may be repeated 2
to 3 times to get the desired results.
If the serrations are ground on the left side of the blade, then start by re-sharpening the blade
in the left slot of Stage 2, with 5 to 6 slow pulls, finishing with two slow pulls in the right side
of Stage 2.
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