EINHELL UZS 18/250 Mode D'emploi page 21

Anleitung UZS 18-250 SPK 1
or right guide rail (52).
Release the clamping lever (10) to set the stop
to the required lateral position and then secure
the lever again.
Undo the knurled screw (32) to set the required
angle on the cross stop and then tighten the
knurled screw again. The angle setting device
has notched positions for all standard angle
sizes.
The stop rail can be adjusted by undoing the two
thumb screws (26).
Important!
Do not push the stop rail (25) too far toward the
blade.
The distance between the stop rail (25) and the
blade (4) should be approx. 12 mm.
8.5. Setting the angle (Fig. 17)
Undo the fixing handle (9).
Turn the handle to set the desired angle on the
scale.
Lock the fixing handle again in the required
angle position.
The saw comes with an angle stop (14).
When the angle stop is in the left position (Fig.
17), the stop is active at 0° or 45°.
When the angle stop is in the right position you
can set a saw blade angle up to max. -2° or
+47°.
8.6 Use as an underswing drag saw
For use as an underswing draw saw the lock (36) of
the saw unit has to be released.
This is done by pulling the drag device (8) slightly
outwards and releasing the lock (Fig. 16 ).
8.7 Use as a bench-type circular saw
For use as a bench-type circular saw the saw unit
has to be fixed in place.
This is done by engaging the lock in one of the
two grooves (a/b) of the draw bar (Fig.15/16).
After the lock (36) latches in place, check that it
is effective.
If the saw unit is fixed in the middle groove (b)
you will have a larger workpiece support on the
rear side of the table.
9.0. Operation
Important!!
After every new adjustment we recommend you
to make a trial cut in order to check the new
settings.
After switching on the saw, wait for the blade to
reach its maximum speed of rotation before
17.03.2005 9:32 Uhr Seite 21
commencing with the cut.
Take extra care when starting the cut!
Before use, the saw must be screwed securely
to the metal angle brackets (a) supplied! To do
this, the metal bracket (a) must be secured to
the machine body with the screws (b) as shown
in Fig. 22.
9.1. Making longitudinal cuts (Figure 19)
Longitudinal cutting (also known as slitting) is when
you use the saw to cut along the grain of the wood.
Important! The saw unit must be fixed in place.
Press one edge of the workpiece against the parallel
stop (7) while the flat side lies on the saw table (1).
The guard hood (2) must always be lowered over the
workpiece.
When you make a longitudinal cut, never adopt a
working position that is in line with the cutting
direction.
Set the parallel stop (7) in accordance with the
workpiece height and the desired width. (See
8.3.)
Switch on the saw.
Place your hands (with fingers closed) flat on the
workpiece and push the workpiece along the
parallel stop (7) and into the blade (4).
Guide at the side with your left or right hand
(depending on the position of the parallel stop)
only as far as the front edge of the guard hood.
Always push the workpiece through to the end of
the splitter (5).
The offcut piece remains on the saw table (1)
until the blade (4) is back in its position of rest.
Secure long workpieces against falling off at the
end of the cut (e.g. with a roller stand etc.) .
9.1.2. Cutting narrow workpieces (Fig. 20)
Be sure to use a push stick (3) when making
longitudinal cuts in workpieces smaller than 120
mm in width. A push block is supplied with the
saw!
Replace a worn or damaged push stick
immediately.
9.1.3. Cutting extremely narrow workpieces (Fig.
21)
Be sure to use a push block when making
longitudinal cuts in very narrow workpieces with
a width of 30 mm and less.
The low guide face of the parallel stop is best
used in this case.
There is no push block supplied with the
saw! (Available from your specialist dealer)
Replace the push block without delay when it
becomes worn.
GB
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