Applications - Milwaukee 2630-20 Manuel De L'utilisateur

Adjusting the Blade to Shoe
The shoe has been adjusted at the factory to a 90
degree setting. Inspect the saw regularly to make
sure the blade is 90 degrees to the shoe.
1. Remove battery pack.
2. Set the bevel pointer to zero.
3. To make sure the blade is 90 degrees to the
shoe, place saw on the blade side and retract
lower guard. Place a square against the blade
and shoe to inspect the degree setting (Fig. 5).
4. To adjust the degree setting, loosen the bevel
adjusting knob. Turn the bevel adjustment screw
in or out until the blade is at a 90 degree angle
with the shoe.
5. Tighten the bevel adjusting knob securely.
WARNING
To reduce the risk of injury,
keep hands away from the blade and
other moving parts. Always wear safety
goggles or glasses with side shields. Use
only specifi cally recommended accessories.
Others may be hazardous.
Causes and Operator Prevention of KICKBACK:
KICKBACK is a sudden reaction to a pinched,
bound or misaligned saw blade, causing an un-
controlled saw to lift up and out of the workpiece
toward the operator.
When the blade is pinched or bound tightly by the
kerf closing down, the blade stalls and the motor
reaction drives the unit rapidly back toward the
operator.
If the blade becomes twisted or misaligned in
the cut, the teeth at the back edge of the blade
can dig into the top surface of the wood causing
the blade to climb out of the kerf and jump back
toward operator.
KICKBACK is the result of saw misuse and/or
incorrect operating procedures or conditions and
can be avoided by taking proper precautions as
given below:
• Maintain a fi rm grip with both hands on the
saw and position your arms to resist kickback
forces. Position your body to either side of the
blade, but not in line with the blade. Kickback
could cause the saw to jumb backwards, but kick-
back forces can be controlled by the operator, if
proper precautions are taken.
• When blade is binding, or when interrupting
a cut for any reason, release the trigger and
hold the saw motionless in the material until
the blade comes to a complete stop. Never
attempt to remove the saw from the work or
pull the saw backward while the blade is in
motion or kickback may occur. Investigate and
take corrective actions to eliminate the cause of
blade binding.
• When restarting a saw in the workpiece, center
the saw blade in the kerf and check that saw
teeth are not engaged into the material. If saw
blade is binding, it may walk up or kickback from
the workpiece as the saw is restarted.
Fig. 5
OPERATION
• Support large panels to minimise the risk of
blade pinching and kickback. Large panels tend
to sag under their own weight. Supports must be
placed under the panel on both sides, near the
line of cut and near the edge of the panel.
• Do not use dull or damaged blade. Unsharp-
ened or improperly set blades produce narrow
kerf causing excessive friction, blade binding and
kickback.
• Blade depth and bevel adjusting locking levers
must be tight and secure before making cut. If
blade adjustment shifts while cutting, it may cause
binding and kickback.
• Use extra caution when making a "plunge cut"
(or pocket cut) into existing walls or other blind
areas. The protruding blade may cut objects that
can cause kickback.
General Operation
Always clamp the workpiece securely on a saw
horse or bench. See "APPLICATIONS" for the
correct way to support your work in different situ-
ations.
1. Draw a cutting line. Place the front of the shoe on
the edge of the workpiece without making blade
contact. Hold the handle with one hand and the
front handle with the other (Fig. 6).
Fig. 6
2. Line up the sight line with your cutting line. Posi-
tion your arms and body to resist KICKBACK.
3. To start the saw, push the lock-off button down
while pulling the trigger. Allow the motor to reach
full speed before beginning cut.
4. While cutting, keep the shoe fl at against the
workpiece and maintain a fi rm grip. Do not force
the saw through the workpiece. Forcing a saw
can cause KICKBACK.
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5. If making a partial cut, restarting in mid-cut or
Bevel
correcting direction, allow the blade to come to
adjustment
a complete stop. To resume cutting, center the
screw
blade in the kerf, back the saw away from cut-
ting edge a few inches, push the lock-off button
down while pulling the trigger and re-enter the
cut slowly.
6. If the saw binds and stalls, maintain a fi rm grip
and release the trigger immediately. Hold the
saw motionless in the workpiece until the blade
comes to a complete stop.
7. After fi nishing a cut, be sure the lower guard
closes and the blade comes to a complete stop
before setting the saw down.
Electric Brake
The electric brake engages when the trigger is
released, causing the blade to stop and allowing
you to proceed with your work. Generally, the saw
blade stops within two seconds. However, there
may be a delay between the time you release the
trigger and when the brake engages. Occasionally
the brake may miss completely. If the brake misses
Cutting Large Panels
Large panels and long boards sag or bend if they
are not correctly supported. If you attempt to
cut without leveling and properly supporting the
workpiece, the blade will tend to bind, causing
KICKBACK.
Support large panels. Be sure to set the depth of
the cut so that you only cut through the workpiece,
not through the supports.
Fig. 7
Cross-Cutting Wood
Cross-cutting is cutting across the grain. Select the
proper blade for your job. Advance the saw slowly
to avoid splintering the wood.
Ripping Wood
Ripping is cutting lengthwise with the grain. Select
the proper blade for your job. Use a rip fence for
rips 4" wide or less. To install the rip fence, slide
the bar through the rip fence slot in either side of
the shoe. The width of the cut is the distance from
the inside of the blade to the inside edge of the rip
fence. Adjust the rip fence for the desired width,
and lock the setting by tightening the rip fence
adjusting knob.
When ripping widths greater than 4", clamp or tack
1" lumber to workpiece and use the inside edge of
the shoe as a guide.
frequently, the saw needs servicing by an autho-
rized MILWAUKEE service facility. The brake is not
a substitute for the guard, and you must always wait
for the blade to stop completely before removing
the saw from the workpiece.
Troubleshooting
If the blade does not follow a straight line:
• Teeth are dull. This is caused by hitting a hard
object such as a nail or stone, dulling teeth on
one side. The blade tends to cut to the side with
the sharpest teeth.
• Shoe is out of line or bent
• Blade is bent
• Rip fence or guide is not being used
If the blade binds, smokes or turns blue from
friction:
• Blade is dull
• Blade is on backwards
• Blade is bent
• Blade is dirty
• Workpiece is not properly supported
• Incorrect blade is being used

APPLICATIONS

WARNING
To reduce the risk of elec-
tric shock, check work area for hidden pipes
and wires before making plunge cuts.
Plunge Cutting
Plunge cuts are made in the middle of the work-
piece when it can not be cut from an edge. We rec-
ommend using a Sawzall ® reciprocating saw or jig
saw for this type of cut. However, if you must use a
circular saw to make a plunge cut, USE EXTREME
CAUTION. To maintain control of the saw during
plunge cutting, keep both hands on the saw.
1. Beginning at a corner, line up the sight line with
your cutting line. Tilt the saw forward, fi rmly fi xing
the front of the shoe on the workpiece (Fig. 8).
The blade should be just above cutting line, but
not touching it. Raise the lower guard using the
lower guard lever.
Fig. 8
2. To start the saw, push the lock-off button down
while pulling the trigger. Allow the motor to reach
full speed before beginning cut. Using the front
of the shoe as a hinge point, gradually lower
the back end of the saw into the workpiece.
Release the lower guard lever and grasp the
front handle.
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