GRAUPNER JULES VERNE Instructions De Montage page 20

filling and sanding. Any openings or gaps should be sealed carefully on the inside using UHU acrylit. Fill
any gaps in the outside surfaces and sand back flush. The joints will need to be fine-sanded, but this is not
carried out until the deck has been fitted.
Installing the optional bow thruster: suppress the motor of the bow thruster (part 34) using one
suppressor capacitor (part 27), and connect the power leads (part 28) to the motor terminals. The bow
thruster must be assembled inside the model; don't glue the parts together outside the boat, otherwise it
will be impossible to install. Tack the assembly in place using cyano, with the electric motor standing
upright at an angle, then apply plenty of UHU acrylit all round the joints with the hull sides. Work carefully
here, as the joints must be 100% watertight.
Omitting the bow thruster: if you do not wish to fit a bow thruster, the holes in the hull must be sealed.
Cut plates from scrap ABS sheet, making them large enough to cover the hole with a generous overlap all
round. Glue them in place with cyano, and apply a fillet of UHU acrylit. Here again take care to make the
joints 100% watertight. NOTE: it is very difficult to install a bow thruster once the model is complete, so the
decision to install one really has to be made at this stage.
Glue the RC plate (part 35) in the hull in the position shown on the plan. Allow plenty of space around the
bow thruster (if fitted) so that you have good access to it for maintenance. As an alternative you may
prefer to omit the RC plate completely and fix the receiving system components directly to the hull sides
using Velcro (hook-and-loop) tape. There are no technical disadvantages to this option.
The deck (part 36) must be trimmed carefully to fit, as already described for the hull and stern staircase.
The deck can then be glued to the hull. Start by gluing it in the area of the stern staircase by applying a
fillet of UHU plast spezial adhesive about 30 cm long and fixing the glued joint with spring clamps (e.g.
Order No. 524.1) while the glue is setting. Once the glue has set, repeat the procedure with the next
section, and continue until the deck is completely attached to the hull. NOTE: the glue penetrates into the
gap between deck and hull through the capillary effect, but this only works with low-viscosity (thin)
adhesives. IMPORTANT: ensure that the edges of the deck and the hull line up as accurately as possible,
otherwise you may build a twist into the finished hull. You don't need to be concerned about excess glue
being squeezed out of the joint, as the glued edges have to be sanded back later in any case.
Check carefully that there are no openings or gaps at any point round the hull / deck joint. If you find a
gap, seal it on the inside using plenty of UHU acrylit. It really is essential that the hull should be 100%
watertight. TIP: if you have to fill a fairly large opening, apply a piece of adhesive tape over the outside
before applying UHU acrylit on the inside. This prevents glue penetrating to the outside, in which case you
would have the tiresome task of sanding it off again when dry.
Now apply filler to all the areas where the deck, the hull and the stern staircase meet, and sand the filler
back flush. You do not need to fill the areas where the wooden deck components will be fitted later; in this
case it is sufficient to check that any gaps are completely filled with glue, and that the surfaces line up
flush so that the wooden parts lie flat when fitted.
Locate the edges where the 3 x 3 mm ABS strips are to be fitted, and sand them to as sharp an edge as
possible. Cut the lower rubbing strakes (part 37) from the square-section ABS strip; note that one side
must be sanded to a slight taper (don't chamfer the face which is to be glued). You will find a line moulded
into the hull where the strip is to be fitted. Cut the upper rubbing strakes (part 38) from the same material.
Pre-bend the strips in such a way that they approximately follow the shape of the hull sides, then glue the
strips to the hull. It is important that the strips are flush with the deck, i.e. the wooden parts of the deck
must rest flat on them.
Use double-sided tape to attach the wooden deck (part 39) to the deck temporarily. Just use a few small
pieces of tape to ensure that the wooden deck cannot shift, and check that it is a snug fit on the inside in
the superstructure area. The next stage is to sand back the hull flush with the wooden deck. Work
carefully here, and take great care not to sand away the wooden deck. Carefully remove the wooden deck
again when the task is finished. The hull can now be fine-sanded overall and painted.
Apply several coats of clear lacquer to both sides of the wooden deck. Carefully rub down the top surface
of the deck after applying each coat using fine abrasive paper (600- or 800-grit). Take care not to remove
too much material, otherwise the laser engraving of the planking joints will disappear. The deck is finished
when the surface is perfectly smooth, with an even, semi-matt gloss.
Stain the ornamental linings (part 40) in a teak colour, and apply clear lacquer to them on both sides when
the stain is dry. Stick the linings to the wooden deck, taking care to avoid glue getting onto the surface.
The wooden deck can now be glued to the boat. For this we recommend a high-viscosity (thick) cyano-
acrylate glue, as it hardens relatively slowly. Apply drops of adhesive to the deck at regular intervals, and
carefully place the deck on the model. Ensure that the deck is correctly positioned, and take care not to
allow any glue to run onto the painted surfaces of the hull. TIP: to be on the safe side it is a good idea to
mask off the area of the hull most likely to be soiled in this way.
When the glue has set hard, carefully sand the hull again to provide a flat surface to accept the rubbing
GRAUPNER GmbH & Co. KG D-73230 KIRCHHEIM/TECK GERMANY
Keine Haftung für Druckfehler. Technische Änderungen vorbehalten! ID# 47496
10/2003
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