DeWalt DCS785 Guide D'utilisation page 15

Dust Extraction (Fig. O)

CAUTION: Never operate this saw unless the dust bag or D
in place. Wood dust may create a breathing hazard.
Your saw has a built‑in dust port that allows an Airlock™ compatible dust collection system
to be connected. Use of a non‑Airlock dust collection system requires the use of the supplied
vacuum adapter.
Our recommended optimal solution:
• Vaccuum (DXV14P)
• Separator (DXVCS003)
• 2‑½" x 7' Hose (DXVA19‑2501)
• Vacuum Adapter: Used for DXV series vacuums and other non‑Airlock
compatible vacuums.
To Attach the Dust Bag (Fig. P)
1. Fit the dust bag 52 to the dust port
To Empty the Dust Bag (Fig. P)
1. Remove dust bag 52 from the saw and gently shake or tap the dust bag to empty.
2. Reattach the dust bag back onto the dust port
You may notice that all the dust will not come free from the bag. This will not affect cutting
performance but will reduce the saw's dust collection efficiency. To restore your saw's dust
collection efficiency, depress the spring inside the dust bag when you are emptying it and tap
it on the side of the trash can or dust receptacle.
Through‑Cutting Operations (Fig. A)
If the slide feature is not used, ensure the saw head is pushed back as far as possible and
the rail lock knob is tightened. This will prevent the saw from sliding along its rails as the
workpiece is engaged.
nOTE: Although this saw will cut wood and many non‑ferrous materials, we will limit our
detailed discussion to the cutting of wood only. The same guidelines apply to the other
materials. DO NOT CUT FERROUS (IRON AND STEEL) MAT ERIALS OR MASONRY WITH THIS SAW.
Do not use any abrasive blades.
nOTE: Refer to guard Actuation and Visibility in the Assembly and Adjustments section
for important information about the lower guard before cutting.
Crosscuts (Fig. A, Q)
A crosscut is made by cutting wood across the grain at any angle. A straight crosscut is made
with the miter arm at the zero degree position. Set and lock the miter arm at zero, hold the
wood firmly on the table and against the fence. With the rail lock knob tightened, turn on the
saw by squeezing the trigger switch 1
When the saw comes up to speed (about 1 second) lower the arm smoothly and slowly to cut
through the wood. Let the blade come to a full stop before raising arm.
When cutting anything larger than a 2 x 8 (51 x 203 mm [2 x 6 (51 x 152) at 45º miter]) use an
out‑down‑back motion with the rail lock knob loosened. Pull the saw out, toward you, lower
the saw head down toward the workpiece, and slowly push the saw back to complete the cut.
Do not allow the saw to contact the top of the workpiece while pulling out. The saw may run
toward you, possibly causing personal injury or damage to the workpiece.
Cutting of multiple pieces is not recommended but can be done safely by ensuring that each
piece is held firmly against the table and fence.
nOTE: To provide greater crosscut capacity with reduced stroke, the blade on the DCS785
extends deeper into the table. As a result, a greater lifting force on the workpiece may be
experienced during the cut.

CAUTION: Always use a work clamp to maintain control and reduce the risk of workpiece
damage and personal injury, if your hands are required to be within 4" (100 mm) of the
blade during the cut.
nOTE: The rail lock knob shown in Figure A must be loose to allow the saw to slide along
30
its rails .
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Miter crosscuts are made with the miter arm at some angle other than zero. This angle is often
45º for making corners, but can be set anywhere from zero to 50 ° left or 60 ° right. Make the
cut as described above.
When performing a miter cut on workpieces wider than a 2 x 6 that are shorter in length,
always place the longer side against the fence
To cut through an existing pencil line on a piece of wood, match the angle as close as possible.
Cut the wood a little too long and measure from the pencil line to the cut edge to determine
which direction to adjust the miter angle and recut. This will take some practice, but it is a
commonly used technique.
Bevel Cuts (Fig. A)
A bevel cut is a crosscut made with the saw blade leaning at an angle to the wood. In order
to set the bevel, loosen the bevel lock
(It is necessary to move the fence to allow clearance.) Once the desired bevel angle has been
set, tighten the bevel lock firmly. Refer to the Controls section for detailed instructions on the
bevel system.
Bevel angles can be set from 49º right to 49º left and can be cut with the miter arm set
between 50º left or 60º right. At some extreme bevel angles the right or left fence may
interfere with the motion of the saw during a cut even if it is moved fully outward. In those
situations, the interfering fence can be temporarily removed in order to make the cut. To
remove the fence, unscrew the fence adjustment knob
fence completely out of the track. The other fence must remain on the saw and positioned
to provide support to the workpiece during the cut. Perform a dry run to ensure proper
WALT dust extractor is
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17 as shown in Figure P.
17 .
shown in Figure A.
12 (Figure Q).
13 , and move the saw to the left or right as desired.
several turns and slide the
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workpiece support and saw motion prior to making the cut. Re‑install the fence immediately
after the cut is complete.
nOTE: Refer to Fence Adjustment in the Assembly and Adjustments section for important
information on adjusting the fences for certain bevel cuts.
Quality of Cut
The smoothness of any cut depends on a number of variables. Things like material being cut,
blade type, blade sharpness and rate of cut all contribute to the quality of the cut.
When smoothest cuts are desired for molding and other precision work, a sharp (60 tooth
carbide) blade and a slower, even cutting rate will produce the desired results.
Ensure that the material does not move or creep while cutting; clamp it securely in place.
Always let the blade come to a full stop before raising arm.
If small fibers of wood still split out at the rear of the workpiece, stick a piece of masking tape
on the wood where the cut will be made. Saw through the tape and carefully remove tape
when finished.
For varied cutting applications, refer to the list of recommended saw blades for your saw and
select the one that best fits your needs. Refer to saw Blades under Optional Accessories.
Non‑Through‑Cutting (Grooving and Rabbeting)
Instructions in the Crosscuts, Bevel Cuts and Cutting Compound Miters sections are for cuts
made through the full thickness of the material. The saw can also perform non‑through cuts to
form grooves or rabbets in the material.
Groove Cut (Fig. A)
1. Refer to Depth Stop for detailed instructions for setting depth of cut. A piece of scrap
wood should be used to verify the desired depth of cut.
2. Hold the wood firmly on the table and against the fence
underneath the blade. Position the saw arm fully forward, with blade in down position.
Turn on the saw by squeezing the trigger switch
saw arm rearward to cut a groove through the workpiece.
3. Release the trigger switch with the saw arm down. When saw blade has completely
stopped, raise the saw arm. Always let the blade come to a full stop before raising the arm.
4. To widen the groove, repeat steps 1–4 until the desired width is obtained.
Clamping the Workpiece (Fig. A)

WARNING: To reduce the risk of serious personal injury, turn tool off, and remove
the battery pack before transporting, making any adjustments, cleaning,
repairing, or removing/installing attachments or accessories. An accidental
start‑up can cause injury.

WARNING: A workpiece that is clamped, balanced and secure before a cut may become
unbalanced after a cut is completed. An unbalanced load may tip the saw or anything the
saw is attached to, such as a table or workbench. When making a cut that may become
unbalanced, properly support the workpiece and ensure the saw is firmly bolted to a
stable surface. Personal injury may occur.

WARNING: The clamp foot must remain clamped above the base of the saw whenever
the clamp is used. Always clamp the workpiece to the base of the saw–not to any other
part of the work area. Ensure the clamp foot is not clamped on the edge of the base of
the saw.

CAUTION: Always use a work clamp to maintain control and reduce the risk of workpiece
damage and personal injury.
If you cannot secure the workpiece on the table and against the fence by hand (irregular
shape, etc.) or your hand would be less than 4" (100 mm) from the blade, a clamp or other
fixture must be used.
For best results use the vertical material clamp
can be purchased at your local retailer or D
Other aids such as spring clamps, bar clamps or C‑clamps may be appropriate for certain sizes
and shapes of material. Use care in selecting and placing these clamps. Take time to make a
dry run before making the cut. The left fence will slide from side to side to aid in clamping
To Install Clamp (Fig. A)
1. Insert clamp post into the hole behind the fence
2. Adjust the clamp up turning the knob counterclockwise. And clamp down by turning the
knob clockwise. Make sure to firmly clamp the workpiece.
nOTE: Place the clamp on the opposite side of the base when beveling. ALWAYS MAKE DRY
RUNS (UNPOWERED) BEFORE FINISH CUTS TO CHECK THE PATH OF THE BLADE. ENSURE THE
CLAMP DOES NOT INTERFERE WITH THE ACTION OF THE SAW OR GUARDS.
Support for Long Pieces

WARNING: To reduce the risk of serious personal injury, turn tool off, and remove
the battery pack before transporting, making any adjustments, cleaning,
repairing, or removing/installing attachments or accessories. An accidental
start‑up can cause injury.
ALWAYS SUPPORT LONG PIECES.
Never use another person as a substitute for a table extension; as additional support for a
workpiece that is longer or wider than the basic miter saw table or to help feed, support or pull
the workpiece.
Support long workpieces using any convenient means such as sawhorses or similar devices to
keep the ends from dropping.
12 . Align the cut area
1 shown in Figure A. Smoothly, push
23 provided with your saw. Additional clamps
WALT service center.
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12 .
English
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