False Alarm Deactivation; Shock Sensor (Zone 4); Vehicle Locator/Panic Mode; Transmitter Range - Fortin FSA-211 Guide Utilisateur

is active. A silent ARM or only 1 chirp indicates that no zones are currently active.
STARTER/SECURITY DIAGNOSTICS (page 12)

FALSE ALARM DEACTIVATION

This option will disable any zone that triggers the system 3 consecutive times. The zone will
automatically re-enable once the LOCK button or the UNLOCK button is pressed.

SHOCK SENSOR (ZONE 4)

This system supports FSS2Z (2 stage - 3 wire) Shock Sensors. The Shock Sensor will cause the siren
to produce a short audible warning on a weak shock, and will trigger a full alarm on a strong shock.
Whenever the vehicle is running with the Remote-Starter the shock sensor is ignored until the
Remote-Starter shuts down. The system can be set to monitor the Shock Sensor if the vehicle is
armed AFTER remote-start.

VEHICLE LOCATOR/PANIC MODE

To locate your vehicle in a busy parking lot press the LOCK button for 3 seconds to sound the
horn/siren (If installed) and flash the parking lights. Press unlock to cancel this Mode.
Note: If a Alarm pre-triggered zone is in memory, this Mode will NOT clear this zone from memory.

TRANSMITTER RANGE

Several factors may affect the operating range of the remote transmitter:
● A weak transmitter battery.
● The operating environment such as in the city and airports due to radio interference, cell phone towers,
etc...
● Several types of metal such as the vehicle itself, other vehicles, the windshields tint lines and large
buildings.
● The vehicle's shape. Vans generally have poorer range.
● The shape of the vehicle's roof and the A-pillars cause considerable radio-frequency deflection. As a
result, the direction in which the vehicle is facing with relation to the remote transmitter can affect
range. Facing the front of the vehicle generally produces the greatest range; secondly facing the back.
Facing either side of the vehicle will usually give the poorest range.
● The range will be significantly poorer in crowded parking lots as opposed to empty parking lots.
● Hold the transmitter at shoulder height or hold it against your chin so your body acts as a larger
antenna.

FAILED REMOTE-START

There are several different installation factors and devices that must work together in order for your vehicle
to Remote-Start properly. In some cases a failed Remote Start is not the fault of the Remote-Starter itself.
Here are some things to consider when the Remote-Starter fails.
● Unmaintained Engine. If you have problems starting the vehicle with the key then the Remote-Starter will
have the same difficulty.
● Low Battery. A battery's voltage can drop to less than 4 volts DC (1/3 of the original) during cold
weather starting. Ensure your battery is working properly and is able to provide the proper current
needed to start the vehicle in extreme temperatures.
● Low Fuel, or water in the fuel tank. Keep your fuel tank full as much as possible to prevent the build-up of
condensation in the tank..
● A corroded or broken Hood Pin switch. Visually inspect the hood pin switch frequently. Cover with a
dialectic grease to prevent corrosion.
● Trailer wiring. Corroded or improperly wired trailer wiring may cause the park light signal to bleed into
the brake signal. This will cause the Remote-Starter to shut down as soon as the park lights are turned
on.
● Problems with the Bypass Kit (if installed). If you are able to put the Remote-Starter into Ready Mode, Idle
Mode, or Turbo Mode, but you are unable to Remote-Start the vehicle then the Bypass Kit may be failing.
Several Remote-Start attempts with a failed Bypass Kit may lock your vehicle for several hours.
● Dash warning lights. The dash should display in exactly the same way when either starting the vehicle
with the key, or with the Remote-Starter. If the dash displays any warning lights (Check Engine, ABS, or
Theft) once Remote-Started then something is wrong. Stop using the Remote-Starter and have it looked
at immediately.
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See REMOTE-