D. Periodically check wiring and wire connection to be sure wiring is not damaged/
frayed and that all terminals and connections are tight and in compliance with
codes (See "Making Wire Connections").
DRAINING AND STORAGE INSTRUCTIONS
If RV is to be stored during winter months, the water heater must be drained to prevent
damage from freezing.
1. Turn off electrical power to water heater either at the switch from the electrical
element or a breaker.
2. Shut off gas supply to water heater.
3. Turn off pressure pump on water system.
4. Open both hot and cold water faucets.
5. Remove anode rod from tank. The anode rod is accessible at the front of the
water heater as shown in Figure 12.
6. Follow RV manufacturer's instructions for draining entire water system.
NOTE: Be certain to refill water heater with water and remove all air from tank and
lines before re-lighting or before turning on electrical power.
WINTERIZING
If your water heater plumbing system is equipped with a bypass kit, use it to close
off the water heater, drain the water heater completely and leave the water heater
closed off (out of the system) in the bypass position particularly if you are introducing
antifreeze into the plumbing system. Antifreeze can be very corrosive to the anode
rod creating premature failure and heavy sediment in the tank. If the plumbing system
is not equipped with a bypass kit, and you intend to winterize by adding antifreeze to
the system, remove the anode rod (storing it for the winter) and replace it with a 3/4"
drain plug.
ANODE PROTECTION
The tank in this water heater is protected by a magnesium or aluminum anode to
prolong the life of the tank by absorbing the corrosive action of hot water. Under
normal use, the anode rod will deteriorate and because of this, we recommend it be
replaced yearly.
NOTE: Water with high levels of iron and/or sulfate will increase the rate of
deterioration; therefore, more frequent replacement may be required. If anode rod is
mostly eaten away, replace it with a new one. (See Figure 12).
To prevent a water leak when replacing the anode rod, a pipe thread sealant approved
for potable water (such as Teflon Tape) must be applied to the threads of the anode
rod. Proper application of a thread sealant will not interfere with the anode's tank
protection.
Operating the water heater without proper anode protection will decrease tank life and
will void your warranty on the tank.
NOTE: Tank is drained by removing anode rod, see the "Draining and Storage
Instructions" section of this manual.
To extend anode life, drain water from tank whenever RV is not being used. Avoid
any extended time of non-use with water in tank. Also, refer to section on Winterizing.
WARNING
Do not replace the anode rod with any non-Suburban accessory part,
such as an "add-on" electric heating element. Items such as these are
not approved to be installed in Suburban products. They could create an
unsafe condition and will also void all warranties.
ODOR FROM HOT WATER SYSTEM
Odor from the hot water system is not a service problem and many water supplies
contain sufficient amounts of sulphur to produce an odor. The odor is similar to rotten
eggs and is often referred to as "sulphur water". It is not harmful - only unpleasant to
smell. Sulphur water can be caused by a chemical action or by bacteria.
The solution to eliminate is chlorination of the water system. Add about six (6) ounces
of chlorinated common household liquid bleach to each 10 gallons in the water tank.
Then run the chlorinated water throughout the system, opening each faucet one at a
time until you smell the chlorine. Let the RV sit for a few days and the chlorine should
take care of the problem. Then you will need to take care of the chlorine. Remove the
chlorine by flushing the system with fresh water. This may take several attempts. You
may consider adding a filtering system that removes chlorine and prevents sulphur
water. If the sulphur or rotten egg smell continues, flush the system once again as
described above and replace anode rod as necessary.
PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE
The temperature and pressure relief valve is designed to open if the
temperature of the water within the heater reaches 210°F, or if the water
pressure in the heater reaches 150 pounds. Recreational vehicle water
systems are closed systems and during the water heating cycle the
pressure build-up in the water system will reach 150 pounds. When this
pressure is reached, the pressure relief valve will open and water will drip
from the valve. This dripping will continue until the pressure is reduced to
below 150 pounds, and the valve closes. This condition is normal and does
not indicate a defective relief valve.
WARNING
Do not place a valve between the relief valve and the tank. Do not plug
the relief valve under any circumstances.
WATER WEEPING OR DRIPPING
FROM PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE
You may experience water weeping or dripping from your water heater's Pressure and
Temperature (P & T) Relief Valve when your water heater is operating. Water weeping
or dripping from the P & T Valve does not always mean the P & T Valve is defective.
As water is heated, it expands. The water system in a recreational vehicle is a closed
system and does not allow for the expansion of heated water. When the pressure of
the water system exceeds the relieving point of the P & T Valve, the valve will relieve
the excess pressure.
Suburban recommends that a check valve not be installed directly at the inlet to the
water heater tank. This will increase weeping of the pressure relief valve.
WARNING
Do not remove or plug the relief valve.
One way to reduce the frequency of this occurrence is to maintain an air pocket at the
top of the water heater tank. This air pocket will form in the tank by design. However, it
will be reduced over time by the everyday use of your water heater.
To replenish this air pocket:
1. Turn off water heater.
2. Turn off cold water supply line.
3. Open a faucet in the RV.
4. Pull out on the handle of the Pressure Relief (P & T) Valve and allow water to flow
from the valve until it stops.
5. Release handle on P & T Valve - it should snap closed.
6. Close faucet and turn on cold water supply; as the tank fills, the air pocket will
develop.
Repeat this procedure as often as needed to reduce the frequency of the weeping of
the P & T Valve. If the weeping persists after following this procedure, you may elect
to install an expansion or accumulator tank in the cold water line between the tank and
check valve to relieve the pressure caused by thermal expansion. Contact your local
dealer for assistance.
REMOVING WATER HEATER
1. Shut off gas supply and disconnect gas supply line from water heater.
2. On DE, DEL and DEM models, disconnect 120 V.A.C. supply at junction box on
heater. On DEC and DELC models, unplug water heater from wall outlet.
3. On all models, disconnect 12 V.D.C. power supply at junction box on heater.
4. On all models disconnect all wires at module board.
5. Shut off water supply. Drain water from tank following instructions under "Draining
and Storage".
6. Disconnect hot and cold water lines from water heater.
7. Remove screws or nails securing control housing to framed opening.
8. Slide heater out. To reinstall, follow instructions in manual under "Installation
Instructions".
WARNING
For your safety, ALL repairs and/or maintenance of unit should be
performed by your dealer or a qualified service technician.
PARTS AND SERVICE
Contact a conveniently located recommended Suburban Service Center. Describe to
them the nature of your problem, make an appointment, if necessary, and provide for
delivery of your RV with the appliance installed.
To obtain information on locating a local service agency, contact:
Suburban, An Airxcel Brand
Customer Service Department
676 Broadway Street
Dayton, TN 37321
(423) 775-2131 Ext. 7101
www.Airxcel.com/Suburban
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